Roofing covered patio addition


#1

I am rebuilding a deck on my house and adding a cover to it at the same time. My question now is what to use when I go about roofing it. It is 1/12 pitch that ties into the existing house with regular asphalt shingles on something like a 4/12. One side butts against the stucco wall of the second story, it will have 3 skylights and 1 plumbing vent (existing vent in wall where it ties in). Roughly 16’x25’ in size.
Also this is in a forested environment so occasionally sticks and things come out of the pine trees that may puncture rubber type roofing?
Thanks


#2

If this is a homeowner diy job I recommend the gaf liberty (or one of the other company’s version).


#3

Actually scratch that, I misread your post. I missed the part about 3 skylights. While it can be done I really wouldn’t use that product on a roof with skylights. Also any flat roof with skylights isn’t really a diy job. I would use pvc or torch down if it was my house.


#4

Your best bet is PVC. You can get Durolast to make yiu what they call a “decksheet”. Give them the dimensions and they will make a 1-piece, factory welded PVC system that is mechanically fastened with hidden fastners. It’s very tough and will last a looking time. They offer a 10 year warranty if it’s installed by a certified Durolast contractor. Where are you located?


#5

Why 3 skylights?
That place will always be Hot.
One skylight will give you all the light you could ever want.


#6

I’ve been looking at torch down. My concern so far is that I see a lot of warning from you guys that torch down is not a diy job regardless of how handy a person is. Is over/under heating as difficult to get a feel for as I read about?
The liberty product sounds neat as an alternative for a diy person. You say not for a skylight job? Is that due to installation difficulties or does it not preform well in that application?


#7

We use peel and stick on flat roofs with skylights. Skylights have to be curb mounts. It’s not DIY friendly in that your relief cuts have to be exact. Another potential problem is when you put the skylight on and your roofing is to thick.


#8

When i do a skylight on a shingle roof,
My roofing butts to the side of the skylight.

When i install on a low slope roof,
My roofing material goes up the wall of the skylight.

Absolutely Not a do-it-yourself job.

I build my own curbs out of 2x6 and use “cant strip”

If you just try to “butt” method,
There is a strong chance
The material will eventually shrink, break loose and leak.


#9

Yes, my plan was to use curb mount skylights. Cant strip and roll up he sides of the curb. Same as I will where the roof butts into the stucco wall if the second story.
For a person who doesn’t roof every day is peel dnd stick a better option than attempting a torch down?


#10

Yes, self-adhered is much better for DIY
Torchdown is more durable over its life but that really needs an experienced installer.


#11

Thanks for the input, self adhesive looks like my best option.
Any suggestions on which manufacturer to how with? Looks like the 2 major lines are liberty and flintlastic. Just curious if ones is better over the other or if installation varies…
I have looked at the installation manual for both, however gaf’s website has “single ply on plywood” in English instructions but the 3 ply are only French or Spanish?
Anyhow, they both say to use a weighted roller over top for adhering. How heavy? I don’t want to go crazy and use a 100lb linoleum roller and over squish it…


#12

While its a better product I would never recommend a diy to attempt torch down. Also its possible to do leak free skylights with a self adhered roof I really don’t think its a diy project either. Flat roofs are much more tricky to make leak free, a big open area is fine but anything with penetrations/flashings/walls and you will be over your head. I really think you shouldn’t take the risk and just hire a pro on this project.

With that said, if you really insist on doing this on your own I will answer your questions. I prefer flintlastic myself,but I don’t find either of those versions to be vastly superior to the other. Don’t use a single ply application! I know its gonna be expensive but go 3 ply with a nail base. Reason you don’t wanna stick self adhered to bare plywood is its impossible to remove in the future. It pretty much assures that you will be replacing 100% of your plywood next time you need to replace the roof. A lighter roller will be fine. To be honest I don’t even use a roller (yeah yeah I know the instructions say to), I just walk down the seams and I never had any issue.


#13

Excellent advice! I do not want to have to rip up plywood for a re-roof…
I assume stay away from those plastic cap nails and use metal ones?
Do you recommend I use your step on seams method or actually use a roller? I have access to a 100lb roller, unless that is overkill.
Is this the proper method for doing my curbs? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RP6CbszD7u0

Thanks again for all the advice!


#14

If you are not using Torchdown,
Plastic or metal simplex doesnt matter.

The video does show how to install the material up the curbs without using cant strip.
But you do know they are not installing Self adhered
In the video, right?
But it is the same folding and cutting method.

Self-Adhered does not stay adhered well
up
Walls and around corners like that.
I still like to use a little heat in areas like this
And seal the seams after completion with modified bitumen in a tube and granules.


#15

Ok, I just wasn’t sure if the plastic ones were just a homeowner grade plastic crap from home Depot, or if they actually hold up.
Yeah I was confused about the video it’s titled “self adhering Mod bit” So I wasn’t sure…
I like the idea of using can’t strip better anyway.