Reglet Cut Thru Stucco & Subwall (w/photos) - Problems?


#1

I have a counter flashing reglet cut through my stucco and subwall. The copper counter flashing is visible when I inspect the wall from my attic. Do I have a potential problem now and/or in the future? Thank you for your help!


#2

Pics? Sounds odd. People normally use a grinder to cut stucco and a saw for wood. Meaning they would have to change power tools making the mistake you’re citing less likely. Post a pic if you can, please.

On an unrelated note I have always known that Leslie West and Ron Jeremy were the same person. Long live the Hedgehog!


#3

Please let me know if you need additional photos or information. I appreciate the help. Thank you.


#4

hes cut to deep or it shouldnt have been installed that way from the outside post an outside pic close up


#5

the stucco must be real thin or thats some grinder. yea need to see out side.


#6

holy cut batman


#7

The counter flashing is 16 gauge (not sure about the step flashing). My concern is what happens when we have a strong storm. Stucco is porous so where will the moisture collect now that the counter flashing extends into the subwall? I am extremely concerned about this work. Your thoughts and advice are greatly appreciated.


#8

looks like they gave the new guy the grinder. anyone who did it before wood have noticed the SAW DUST!!
but the flashing does not look too bad. the guy clipped down the apron just didn’t slam nails into it and caulk them.it the stucco is porous thats not a roofing problem its masonry. a good painter how knows stucco can fix that. i don’t know if i would hang the roofer in this one…

everyone lookin but nowones takin. why??


#9

Looks like you have some real thin particle/fiber board there. Looks like an honest mistake to me. It looks messed up but I don’t see it hurting anything. If water gets through his work that little bit of cardboard or whatever isn’t going to make the difference.

Stucco sucks because you can never mate new to existing. It looks ok for awhile if you do but after awhile is opens up at the mating joint and takes on water. I’ve seen it happen so much that we rarely remove stucco anymore. Normally we just rip a line with a grinder and put in the counter flashing, then caulk it. It’s kind of hack IMO but unless the people are willing to replace the entire stucco wall it’s about all you got. You can also rip like 5-1/2" and remove the stucco. Then insert a drip cap up under the cut line and wedge a 6" fascia board up under it to keep it in place. It’s a pain and I don’t care for the look but it won’t ever leak. This method also works well for vertical siding.

A big trick to watch out for that almost nobody does is to clean your copper (any metal really)of the factory machine oil on it before you caulk it. The machine oil will prevent the caulking from sticking and water will end up getting in.

I could pick anyones work apart. I think he should have soldered the joints on his apron but I love that he used clips to put it in. I hate to see people leave exposed nails on metal, even if they don’t leak it’s just ugly. Except for the understandable grinder mishap I’d say it looks to be ok work. Let me know if it leaks, heh.

*edit **“Stucco is porous…” **True which is why it should be painted. Your walls shouldn’t be taking on water. If they are have them looked at by a mason and/or a painter.

Also no big deal but if it matters to you copper goes by ounce, not guage if it matters. 16oz. flashing is fairly standard although some people go 20 on longer lived mediums like slate.


#10

Thank you for your input.

I’m frustrated because the roofing firm (well established) did not determine the cause of the water problem, which appears to be the stucco not the original flashing. While the new step flashing and counter flashing won’t hurt, the money would have been better spent on having the stucco painted/sealed. Plus, the integrity of the walls along the roof line have now been compromised by the reglets that were cut too deep. One would expect a professional to determine the thickness of the stucco BEFORE cutting the reglets? I feel this may cause a problem in the future and I’m considering having a third party inspect the work before final payment. Any thoughts or advice?

Note: the aprons are soldered on the horizontal surfaces. The one photo shows the overlap on a slope, hence the lack of solder.


#11

is the stucco on a cheek/halfit. can u take a pic of the outside back abit


#12

am thinking if its a cheek u maybe able to clad over the stucco


#13

I could be way off base hear because I don’t do residential. But I think what should have been done there is after he cut WAAAAY too deep he should have filled the hole, then ran the counter flashing up the wall a little bit higher, maybe even try to get it under the stucco if possible. Then after running the counter flashing up the wall, had more stucko or SOMETHING installed over the counter flashing. Remember water runs downhill, never let a roof termination point get bucked if its possible to avoid.


#14

yeah like clad over it you dont raggle into wood u cladd over it


#15

Here’s the exterior photo. The original problem: below the open window is an enclosed porch that was added after the house was built. When we have a heavy rain, water stains would be visible on the stucco just below the roof where the open window is located as well as above a door from the interior to the porch. After the step flashing and and counter flashing was installed and the window frame and casing was caulked, water stains are still visible when the wall is soaked. To his credit the amount of staining has been reduced but now the contractor is claiming that the stucco needs to be sealed/painted to prevent all leakage. That might be true, but now that the walls have been cut they are only as good as the caulk that was used to seal the reglet. In your opinion, are we in for problems in the not too distant future? Thanks for everyone’s input!


#16

really the window should be a bit higher by the looks of it and the flashing placed up under the window then the window installed on top of the copper prefablly with a cill again if the window was added at a later date this wouldnt be possable as the stucco is all ready done


#17

i think the stucco is the problem but i think its the contruction underneath because its limiting the way the flashing can be installed


#18

also likes of the cutting into that stucco am unsure if its common practice where you are as am from the uk but there must be a way to place a bead over the copper and marry in the stucco saving you cutting into it ,ie place bead over copper and put stucco over the bead and match it to excisting this would then mean youd have to paint


#19

That makes sense.

Why not determine the thickness of the stucco BEFORE cutting anything? After that, just cut the reglet deep enough into the stucco for the counter flashing reverse fold (if you’re using one) and apply caulk. Is it really necessary to cut through the entire stucco, support mesh and subwall?


#20

here is scotland wed laugh at folk even thinking about cutting into a wooden wall it just wouldn’t happen