Re-roof in Florida: 60's BUR for Arch shingles


#1

Hello, new member here.

I’m in Palm Beach FL

After pricing out re-roof on my 20 square built-up, quotes were coming in at 10-19k all inclusive.

I could not swing that much. Roof from the 1960s was holding up, with just one small nagging leak somewhere in the valley over the kitchen.

I went and got owner-builder permit at the county building dept, cost me $80.

Went to big box store and got 66 bundles of architectural shingles, starter strips, ridge caps, 10 rolls of 30# felt, 11 drip edge 10ft pieces, 7200 RS 1.25" galvanized nails, some peel and stick, and pipe flashing. Still need few odds and ends, but I’m in this $2000 by now.

Friend and I demoed the BUR in two days, dodging summer storms in the afternoons.

Under that was shiplap boards, 1x12. Each board was nailed into trusses 3 times, about 5in apart.

Question is, do I have to renail the sheathing in this case? I can go between the nails, that would make it nail every 2.5-3in. If I have to renail, do I use 8d 2.5in nails or 4in?

Thank you for advice, and safe roofing!

Also, for sheathing inspection, with afternoon storms and heavy rains, can I just take pics and go ahead and dry-in the roof, and skip this inspection with self-certification??


#2

Overall look of one side of the roof:

I was gonna nail small patches of galvanized metal over the hollow wood knots, or is there a better solution? So that all shingle nails have something to bite into.

Thank you


#3

Deck looks beautiful. Adding extra nails never hurts if the deck is loose, I probably would if it was my house.

Not a FL guy here so can’t answer the questions on inspection procedures, know they have crazy codes.


#4

You need to talk to your local code official. Florida codes (and each inspectors interpretation of said code) vary from county to county.


#5

You use 8d (2 1/2) ring shank.

But i dont think you are going to need to.
It already meets the spacing requirement.
So that means you dont even need to remove the underlayment.
We dont remove the underlayment on most 1x decking roofs and install new underlayment on top.
We check several spots first to make sure it meets the nail spacing/ nail length requirement.
You already met the nail spacing requirement
But are the old nails 8d??
Most of the time they are but sometimes they do not.
Renail if they are not 8d.

Schedule for next day inspection when you are done with underlayment or mostly done.
Inspector needs to see you are using correct underlayment and know how it is to be applied.
Inspector will cut into underlayment to check,
Usually just one small spot.

Edit… just reread your original post
And you Do Not meet the underlayment requirement.
You will fail it.
If decking is under 4/12, you must use 2ply of felt, not one. ( 18 inch laps, not 36 inch)
Buy 10 more rolls of felt or bring back the 10 rolls you bought and buy 10 rolls of Ice and water shield.
If you continue with the felt , you will be subject to the nailing requirement for that which is very extensive!
1x is a hard wood and with the millions of fasteners they will be requesting Without a simplex gun, you will be cursing the day you were born.


#6

Thank you for taking time to reply.

Understood on 2ply, my permit requires use of #30, but does not specify number of layers.

Does sheathing inspection require soffit to be fixed as well, I have couple of soft board ends and some rot in rafter tails (in the valleys)?

How can I check the nails for 8d? Drive one of them back out and visually inspect?

I don’t want to mess this up

Thank you for taking time out of your Sunday, much appreciated guys!


#7

Yeah pull a nail, 8d will be 2.5". Look like 8d in the pictures, but pulling is an easy way to check.


#8

Sister your rafter tail , replace facia.
No soffit work needed.
Yes , pull the nail and make sure.
The inspector surely will.
If he doesnt, it is only because he is experienced to know the size of the nail by the size of its head.


#9

Went to Building Dept, and talked to the inspector

He said nails are good. No need to cover knot holes. Go ahead and dry it in, with peel and stick all around and in the valleys (i presume valley peel and stick goes first?), and two layers of #30 felt (19" overlap). Screws 8in apart in felt, with two outside screws joining two pieces of felt. Call for inspection when I get to valley metal

I have air nail gun, 7200 RS 1-1/4 nails, 3800 1-5/8 tins, and lots of time haha

And.he said take a lot of photos and have evidence of work done in all stages. And take photo of mailbox with roof in the background showing property being worked on.


#10

Ok, looks like you are going to get to do your own photo in-progress inspection.

They did tell you about the nailing pattern of the felt paper, correct??
They want photo evidence with a tape measure
Showing you know the pattern and the nailing distances. Did they show you a sample?
Or explain??
You need a simplex every 6 inches on every seam.
And you need 12 inches on center
In between the 19 inch laps.
They want a close up pic of that and then the whole side.
Both sides.


#11


These are pics what the 1ply pattern looks like.
1 ply has two runs of 12 inches on center stagard.

You will only have one run of 12 inches on center.


#12

I have concerns over the pitch of the roof w/Architectural Shingles.

What is the pitch?


#13

They didn’t tell me about nailing pattern, just that I need to double up on #30 felt. Thank you for sharing pics of your job, I got the idea, and I will mark address on the felt in my photos as well.

Having trouble finding valley flashing that is not in a roll, I don’t have enough confidence that I can score it properly and it’s 16" wide, whereas GAF calls for 20" wide valley metal. Even tried ABC supply and they have never heard of prefab valley metal???

Every YouTube video about valley flashing uses 10ft runs of W flashing

Roof is just over 2/12


#14

Make sure tape measure and address is in all photos.
We all
Use rolled valley around here.
Pre-fab is special order.
16 is ok.
I rarely see 20 inch rolls. And if i did, it is made of aluminum, which is almost worthless.
You want the good galvanized steel.

Justin is right about the concern over putting timberlines on a 2/12.
I am as well.
I would only put 3 tabs or Atlas Pinnacle on that roof.Atlas is the only Architect shingle they sell in our area that has a true double thickness wide nailing zone.

In colder climates, no shingles are accepted on a 2/12.


#15

Thank you for the info.

I am ready to start drying in, rains have me delayed and I left roof tarped afraid it might storm half way thru laying felt

I have nail air gun and 1-1/4 rs nails, and tons. Is that ok to use on felt? I have box of orange cap simplex but man they are easy to bend when nailing and caps crush (been using them to tarp), I would like to avoid using them and instead shoot nails thru tins from the gun

I will form valley metal, hope it works out. Should I nail on the outside lip of metal using only nail head to hold metal down, or thru metal. To allow it to expand

I am retarded and still not clear on double felt nailing pattern.

I start with drip edge on eaves. Nailed with gun every 8in.
Then I roll felt starting at rake and parallel to eave, with 17in overhang that will be cut off, to give me 19in double layer start. Cut off 17in overhang

It’s confusing to me


#16

Nailing felt on with a gun normally doesn’t work too good, anytime it goes too tight or misses you have a 3/8 hole in your felt. Not a Florida guy but if they require a nailing pattern you probably need to use cap nails.


#17

Lay the first run of felt on the ground to the length of the roof. So you can safely cut it.
It is going to be a shorter piece( half the roll)
Cut the felt down the middle of the roll long ways.
There are guidelines on the felt.
You will see two middle lines on the felt.
Cut down the center of those middle lines.
Go up on the roof and intall it.
Just enough fasteners to keep it in place.
Then install one full width run on top of that.
Ok, so now you have your two ply on the bottom 19 inches or so.
The bottom of your next run of felt is going to completely cover both of those two middle lines that i talked about before.
So you dont have to measure anything to figure your two ply.
The lines on the felt are your guidelines.
So your nailing pattern is going to be every 6 inches on the laps.
And one run down the centers every 12 inches.

To save you a ton of headache and time,
Go to homedepot or lowes and buy the “stinger” simplex gun and a box of stinger cap fasteners.
It should cost you around 400 for everything.
Your going to need all of that other box of nails for the shingles.

Yes, nail into the valley metal 1/2 to an inch on the edges.
I dont score my metal.
I make sure the metal is as far down as it will go into the valley before i nail it.
The easiest way for an inexperienced person to do it is
Measure the distance of the valley.
Cut the metal on the ground distance plus one foot.
Start the valley from the bottom.
Have your buddy hold it in place at the bottem extending the bottom a couple inches.
Roll it to the top and nail it on one side.
Nail every 6 inches with your roofing gun along the one side all the way from top to bottem.
Now go back up to the top of the valley.
Standing in the center of the valley now.
Put your hand in the center of the valley at the top of it and push it all the way down.
Your feet will be holding the valley down 4-5 feet below
So now you have at least 4 to 5 feet ready to nail the other side.
Keep all your weight (that foot)in the center of the valley pushing it down as you go before you nail it.


#18

Thank you so much for the explanation

Do I need peel and stick all around the perimeter of the roof, or just in valleys under the felt and the metal?


#19

Sounds like You have only one roll of Ice and water shield.
So around 66 feet or so.
You dont need it up the rakes.
Install in valley and eve.
Sounds like you need one more roll.
And then have half a roll left over.
If you want to use it up
I would rather use that left over half roll on the peak or the bottoms than i would the rakes.

The rakes just dont ever leak in florida.