Help our dormers are leaking! We are replacing our roof due to hail damage. The existing flashing on the dormers is continuous flashing with no turn back and lots of nail holes. My roofer and I agreed that he would install step flashing at the dormers and the insurance agreed to pay for new flashing to be installed. The siding is cedar and it splits and cracks easily. Since the existing flashing is leaking will the insurance pay to remove and replace the siding on the dormers since there is no way to install the new flashing without destroying it?
Is the siding tight to the shingles?
Can you snap a pic?
Here is a picture. The siding is real tight to the wall and it is nailed through the flashing in some places. If you try and loosen up the siding it just splits at the nails.
With the new “thinner” shingles there is still only about 1/4-1/2 inch gap between the bottom siding and the roof. There are (6) nine foot runs. They got step flashing installed on one run but the cedar siding looks pretty beat up.
That looks like T 104 siding run horizontally.
I don’t have the answer to your question about a supplement but when I run into that I sometimes take a multimaster tool and cut it up an 3/4 inch to get it off the roof. Often times can work the step in until you hit the corner.
You need to remove the siding & the corner posts.
If you are having trouble with getting the nails out you can cut them with a sawsall.
When you put it back together put some underlayment on the walls lapping the top of the new flashing.
I don’t know if the ins company will pay for it or not but it shouldn’t cost too much for the siding material.
Im not saying that this is the right way, but you could always just flash up that cedar (over the old flashing if you have too), then put counter flashing right over the flashing to make it look better, then calk the top. But then if you change your siding in the future that flashings coming off. Just an idea haha
A gum lip flashing on cedar?
Open your wallet and replace that old siding.
The siding has to go. If you want this to properly work you need to have the step flashing go under the siding. There are all sorts of ways you can make it work, but none will work as well as the way step flashing is designed to work. I have seen guys just put a hideously large bead of caulk in there but that will eventually fail. Also, since it’s next to a dormer your roofer should have put ice/water barrier under the shingles if you’re in a climate with wind driven rain or ice.
The insurance should pay to detach & reset the amount of siding needed to properly install the flashing. Keep that picture. Take pictures of the siding removed and the flashing installed. If any siding is damaged during the process, they should pay to replace. Get pictures of the damaged siding. It will probably need painted. Insurance should pay for that as well. Ideally, you would supplement prior to doing the work but not everybody knows how to do that. You should at least let the adjuster know the siding will have to come off and see what he says. If you don’t do that, supply the supplement for the work with the final invoice for the recoverable depreciation and any other items owed by the insurance.
An easy fix is to just lay a PT 1x4 against the siding and trace. Nail a few trim nails in siding about 3/4" above cut line. Cut siding on line and remove. Then you have 3 1/2 inch to work with. Cut step flashing down 3/4" so it fits. Then when flashed just install 1x4 over flashing. Stain or paint to match.
I have never understood why houses are built with counter flashing at brick but nobody ever wants to build a house that has counter flashing at siding and / or stucco to roof juctions. We have managed to talk all of the builders we work with into and pay for pre-flashing 24-ga. Kynar or copper receiver flashing at all siding and / or stucco walls.
This method serves two purposes: #1.) it gives the framing / cornice crew at definitive place to start / stop their siding installation (same with stucco contractor) and insures that nails are not gunned in too low on the step flashings (or tile pans if the roof is tile) and #2.) when the roof needs to be replaced or repaired due to unforseen circumstances, the is an already existing release point (just as seen with counterflasing brick) and the situation shown in the picture is completely avoided.