Proposal Evaluation


#1

NJ $266/sq.

Certainteed Landmark 30, Grace Ice & Shield, and Airvent Shinglevent 2 ridgevent (I had to specify brand on all of these, they use Owens Corning)

They said they would not re-flash around the 2 front dormers, unless necessary. How is it possible not to reflash around the dormers.

and no valley flashing, they said the ice shield was enough.

They also did not include drip edge in the bid, saying they would have to remove existing gutters to do that. And although there is ridge vent, no soffit ventilation in the proposal–until; i told them ridge vent won’t work w/o Sofftt and Certaintteed warranty will be no good.

They also wanted to use flash cement for chimney, until I specified copper.

Now they are coming back with new price. I’m not that impressed with them.

Thoughts on the above? My sense is that this is a pretty low quality/cheap/quick and dirty roofer.


#2

throw it out for [size=200]MANY[/size] reasons. first being tar the chimney…hacks!!. drip edge is automatic with most roofs (if drip edge is common in your area). usually reflash dormers (usually).


#3

They sure do like to take short cuts on all phases of their work.

Sheet metal in the valley is not necessary if Ice and Water Shield is already installed, unless you prefer the aesthetics of its looks.

Existing step flashing baby tins on the 2 sides of most dormers, unless reroofed 3-4 times already, are typically in decent and mostly re-useable shape, but they all should be inspected and replaced as required.

Gutter apron eave edge drip edge sheet metal flashings are installed without removing the gutters all of the time. I don’t know why else he would not install this, except it takes more time to do it right and before you can start installing the shingles.

No comment about the price. Prices can be from double or more from one company to another, with seemingly similar specifications, until you dig deep enough to know what you are actually getting.

Ed


#4

flash cement in the chimneys–only if its used to seal the counter flashing after it has been tucked into the brick/stucco. Copper isnt a necessity, and most people dont use it unless its on a high profile job. We only use terne coated metal for chimney flashings and for our step flashing.

What flashing in the dormers isnt he changing? The step flashing in the side walls or the apron/headwall flashing on the front of the dormer.

We always change every bit of flashing on every roof we do. Unless there isnt a way to get the new flashing in the same place. I.E. stucco house in which the customer doesnt want an external counter flashing.

Valley metal isnt necessary. Many houses go with the closed style valley (california cut). I use metal W valley for customer’s that dont mind the look, but we close cut too for others that dont want metal. There is no point in running metal down, and then shingling over it, especially if there is ice guard beneath the valley.

Gutter removal shouldnt be necessary in order to install drip edge, unless it is the type of gutter that has the gutter helmet built into the gutter.


#5

[quote=“MAYNIAC”]
Many houses go with the closed style valley (california cut).


#6
  1. ALWAYS put metal in the valleys. It is a problematic area with high water traffic. Ice sheild, followed by a slip sheet, then your valley metal. If you’re using copper then use clips, don’t nail through the valley! Then run your felt paper 6" on to the valley metal.

  2. THERE IS NO reason, NONE, to ever use tar on a new roof. Period, end of story. Why the hell would you say it’s ok to fill in mortar joints with it?!?!

Honestly some of the things I see suggested on this site these days scares me. You take mortar out, you put mortar back. Christ.


#7
  1. I don’t understand the dormer flashing issue. Like somebody said above, unless there is stucco over flashing and flashing is in good shape (or some similar situation) new flashing should be installed as part of the new roof system.
  2. Several of the manufacturers and many building codes state that ice and water shield is perfectly acceptable in the valley in lieu of metal. I agree. I’m not sure what additional benefit is gained by adding metal in a valley (I’m assuming that we are talking about closed-cut valleys here).
  3. Are they planning to use tar over the chimney flashing instead of installing counter-flashing? That is not proper and aesthetically ridiculous. I agree that copper is best, but make sure that you have some metal counter-flashing installed.
  4. I wouldn’t worry about price so much. You’ve done your research. Find contractors that will give you what you want and meet the criteria that you have set. Then look at price. You might find that the numbers you have aren’t really that low (I don’t live in your area, so I can’t tell you for sure).

Good luck


#8

jerryv, go with your gut feeling. Look at other contractors. A roof is a major decision and investment. Do you homework. My opinion is this contractor you are referencing is not concerned in doing a quality job. You will get what you pay for.


#9

In Minnesota a 26 gauge 16 inch wide valley flashing is required in all valleys. I like to put a shingle upside down along the center of the valley a couple inches to act as a buffer between my knife blade and the first layer of shingles. This shingle also acts as a buffer keeping the shingles from getting stuck to the adjacent roof, sort of dual purpose.

For what you want plan to spend $325-400 per square. $266 per square and you will get many corners cut.

Sounds like you may know more about roofing than the person who bid your roof. It really helps to have a contactor that can teach you about a roof system.


#10

My opinion is this contractor you are referencing is not concerned in doing a quality job. You will get what you pay for.

I thought so, just wanted to get y’alls professional opinion.

Thanks