Post Flashing


#1

how would you flash a 6x6 post centered with a valley that ends at the post? the runoff hits the post on the corner (at a 45).


#2

Why is there a post in the middle of your valley?
It shouldn’t be there to begin with…
Pictures please.


#3

kick it away from the post with a diverter


#4

If it MUST remain in that location, then I would Grace Ice and Water shield all four sides and fabricate a lead flashing to encapsulate the post, starting from the lower portion and working my way up the two sides with a lead pan style flashing on the top side where the water flowage emanates from.

But, I would do anything that I could to re-locate the post before I would do that.

Ed


#5

post can’t be moved, it’s supporting a overhang over the front door. how do i post pics?


#6

Hi,

We have chimneys in the middle of valleys. You just flash the post like you would a chimney.

Cut a reglet in the post just like you would for counterflashing anything else.


#7

Click here for free account to host your pics


#8

this is the situation i am faced with. the cedar is just a trim. it needs to be reflashed underneath


#9

I would build a saddle/cricket to move the water away from it. Another smart design from an engineer


#10

The Architect that designed that should be killed and eaten… :twisted:

I like Ed’s solution of fabricating a metal flashing and re-doing the valley that drains into it.
All soldered together would be best IMO.


#11

I’m thinking photoshop, 2 or 3 people should have already smeared tar all over it by now.


#12

I think, that is a work for a “sheet metal guy”

The same problem (well the chimney is a little bigger than your post) but the post could be “fixed” the same way!

It looks a little dirty after the roofer finished the tile work

It has been installed 10 or so years ago, NO call-back yet!
I DID NOT use Caulk or other sealants… Probably, thats why it is still water proof. :slight_smile:

They get there 10-15 ft. snow in the winter which stays there for 5-6 months (it is in the high Alps in Austria)
So the flashing, that goes up the chimney, is 8 inches (which is a standard rule in Europe)
and has a 1 inch hem (also standard) against “blowing snow”

The detail connections are double locked standing seams (sorry, also standard)


#13

Hi,

Nice job on the chimeny. We have chimneys in the center of the valleys too.

That post is no different.


#14

Nice metal work…I too believe that caulk is not required if a true mechanic installs the metal…I have had H.O.s ask why I don’t use caulk…Reputation lasts a life time,caulk does not…


#15

This is not a diy job,if you have to ask what to do ,you are not capable of how to do…cal a pro,and make sure he uses metal,and not tar…