Need Roof Repair Advice


#1

I just baught a home in Jan 08… The roof came up on my home inspection as shingles loose, the ones that came off during my purchase were repaired by the seller, however since them more have came off due to the wind (I think they were not properly) secured when roof done… The house was built in 1985 and my father suggested I will probably eventually need a new roof, however I am unsure whether this is original roof or a second roof…Cost is definately a factor, and I dont want to let the roof go to long in case the few more that have came off will cause leaks…

Some advice is appreciated, I am new to this.
:mrgreen:


#2

how old did they say the roof was in the disclosure report when you bought the house? my guess is that it is original and is ready to be replaced. no point in repairing a 23 year old roof.


#3

Did you have an inspector? DId he miss something?
How do you define “loose shingles” ? (pertaining to compostion shingles)

Not much value in repairing a 23 yr. old roof


#4

[size=75]Did you have an inspector? DId he miss something?
How do you define “loose shingles” ? (pertaining to compostion shingles)

Not much value in repairing a 23 yr. old roof[/size]

****** Inspector didnt miss anything, I new the shingles weren’t properly installed and we asked for the ones missing to be repaired, however more have came off… It was part of settlement agreement.*****

[size=75]how old did they say the roof was in the disclosure report when you bought the house? my guess is that it is original and is ready to be replaced. no point in repairing a 23 year old roof. [/size]

****** Honestly, I don’t remember if it was listed, think it was the generic, everything to their knowledge okay, b/c the shingles didnt come off until the walk thru… The inspector originally said he thought it was original until he went to attic then he mentioned may be 2nd roof… It doent look like its 23 years old, but what do I know

How much do new roof cost roughly $ range?? ******

[quote][/quote]


#5

we at least need your location, how many layers, 1 or 2 story, steep or walkable, valleys & dormers or straight roof? too many variables to even give a ball park. pics would be the best.

in ny it is the law that the seller gives the owner a disclosure of information on things like the age of the furnace, roof & other things at the point of the sale.


#6

[size=75]we at least need your location, how many layers, 1 or 2 story, steep or walkable, valleys & dormers or straight roof? too many variables to even give a ball park. pics would be the best.

in ny it is the law that the seller gives the owner a disclosure of information on things like the age of the furnace, roof & other things at the point of the sale.[/size]

**I am in Bel Air, Maryland… Don’t understand the layers question (im clueless)… 2 story… think steep, Don’t understand the valleys & dormers questions either (i am tryin’ really)… I added a picture …

They did disclose the info, but they fixed what we asked, now more is happening… I dont have the paper here to check if that was actually included, Im just guessing…**


#7

you have no valley or dormers. not steep (4/12 - 6/12 pitch) looks like fairly easy roof. i would ball park it at 22-24/ sq.
expect prices from $5500(best case)-$8400(worst case) depending on actual square footage, how many layers and quality of company.

pricing is very regional. those would be my prices (upstate NY) if it were 1 layer 22 sq. up to 2 layer 24 sq. other variables are included in there…such as fuel costs, plywood damage etc.


#8

[size=75]you have no valley or dormers. not steep (4/12 - 6/12 pitch) looks like fairly easy roof. i would ball park it at 22-24/ sq.
expect prices from $5500(best case)-$8400(worst case) depending on actual square footage, how many layers and quality of company.

pricing is very regional. those would be my prices (upstate NY) if it were 1 layer 22 sq. up to 2 layer 24 sq. other variables are included in there…such as fuel costs, plywood damage etc.[/size]

****** Thank you for the response I did speak with a roofer yesterday in my area… He gave me ball park figures for what he’d charge, said to replace the entire thing would be in the $3500.00 range… To repair 5 shingles and tar suspicious ones that were lifting, would be $250.00… Does this sound high? Or is it a good deal… Especially after last nights storm, I think I need to just get it done.*** **


#9

Shop around with a few roofers. I used to be a roofing consultant in the D.C. area before moving to Texas. If my memory serves me correctly, Bel Air is close to D.C. If this is correct you may want to see if Bob LaMountain Roofing is still around. He did good work at a fair price, but that was several years ago.


#10

[size=75]Shop around with a few roofers. I used to be a roofing consultant in the D.C. area before moving to Texas. If my memory serves me correctly, Bel Air is close to D.C. If this is correct you may want to see if Bob LaMountain Roofing is still around. He did good work at a fair price, but that was several years ago.[/size]

*Bel Air, Maryland and D.C. are i think a couple hours away, but ill see what I find… Thank you.


#11

what was his propsed scope of work for that replacement price & what was the square footage of the roof.


#12

[size=75]what was his propsed scope of work for that replacement price & what was the square footage of the roof[/size]

***** Wasn’t an offical quote just a guess, he’s coming to look at it today… I just need some shingles repaired, new ones put down where I lost few, and tar some that look like they’ll come up. I dont know how to figure the sq ft (sorry)*****


#13

ok loverk,
you got what we dowe here call a gravy job.
your house is about as simple as they come.
any knucklehead can roof that one.
replace roof.
dont spend over 5000.

gweedo.


#14

[quote=“gweedo”]
dont spend over 5000.

gweedo.[/quote]

how can you say that when you dont know what the pricing is in his area?


#15

Agreed with /, especially if there’s a porch on back or a dormer or something we can’t see (backed up gutters, etc).

Also, we’d need to know if there is a kickout on the vertical to fascia termination @ the garage.

To the customer: What I just said is where the R box (‘main house’) meets the less deep garage roofline, water will run down the wall to roof joint. Where the roof ends & the wall gets water washing across it, there is often a problem with rotting (no matter what kind of siding product you have, it needs proper flashing).

As for the measurements asked about a few posts prior, we don’t expect YOU to know how to measure it (although on a house like this, it’s the easiest type: up one side of the “A”, then down the other… that’s your 1st measurement. For the 2nd number, measure from L to R. Multiply the up & over x the L to R & that’s the basic start).

If the house is 23 years old, chances are you are past the expected life of your shingles & a total re-roof is in order. You’ve mentioned 2 or 3x about shingles not being properly secured or installed back when the roof was originally done, however if those are 3 Tab shingles (the smooth, flat variety, some know them as 20 year shingles) then it’s NOT the method of attachment you’re having issues with, it’s the age of the shingles.

You might also get suggestions to do a ‘roof over’ or ‘lay over’ where the old shingles don’t get taken off… BAD IDEA. The savings are marginal & the added damage is in the long run not worth it. Think of it like this: Would YOU want to buy a house that had a roofover?

Back to the ‘improper method of attachment’. If your inspector said the house needed shingle repairs on a 23 year old roof job (especially, again… with 3T’s) then he did a bad job. The only thing I’d expect out of a 23 year old shingle is to need a full replacement.

& That’s MY opinion.