Metal Roofing advice


#1

Hi all,

I am considering getting an aluminum roof and was wondering if anyone could provide comments on Classic Products Roofing Systems? Are they any good? Is there anything I should be aware of?

Thanks very much!

I really appreciate the expertise and advice given on this forum!

Mason


#2

are you a homeowner or a contractor?
If you contact Todd Miller at Classic I believe that you can get answers to any of you concerns.
google is your friend


#3

I’m a homeowner.


#4

classicmetalroofingsystems.com


#5

Mason,

Classic make a good metal roofing system. Their oxford shingle is a very flexible system , when it comes to a really cut-up homes.

Your main concern should be the installer putting it on. I recommend a tear-off of existing shingles to make sure your roof deck is in a good shape. I also recommend GAF DeckArmor as the underlayment. There will always be condensation under metal roof and deckarmor will take care of it as it is breathable. Of course you will need adequate ventilation for the attic so a ridge/soffit vent system is recommended.

Good luck


#6

if you have a low slope, do not put on a shingle
metal roof. use continuous panels.

if you have a good steep roof then you can put anything up there.

i do like galvalume , painted or not, over aluminum
its alot stronger.

gweedo


#7

gweedo, it’s a straight forward 4/12 gable roof. I was considering a G90 or galvalume roof, but I kept hearing the issues with where ever the steel is cut the coating is comprimised and leads to rust. I also heard that when the galvalume bends are made it stretches the coating thin and creates hairline cracks which eventually lead to rust. I’m no expert, but this is what I’ve read and been told.

LAMetals, thanks for the tips. Would you also recommend using Grace ice & water shield on the valleys, around chimneys and on the drip edge? Or is that overkill / unnecessary? I have heard the merits of GAF-Elk Deck Armour for asphalt roofs, which I mentioned to Classic. They said they would put in on if that’s what I wanted. They also said that they believe their synthetic underlayment is superior and will hold up uncovered for up to a year. Not sure about the breathability though. I will ask.

Thanks!


#8

To Mason,

Which profile are you using? What ever it is, stay away from country manor shake. If you like the cedar shake style, go with rustic shingle, otherwise, like i said - oxford shingle is a great profile.

Classic uses shark-skin, and while it is a good underlayment (much easier to work with it then with tri-flex30) both of them, and you can add titanium and other synthetics, will trap moisture, which gives you a very good chance of growing mold in the attic, even if well ventilated. That is why we use deck armor.

I remember threads here where some roofers said they won’t let their guys work with it “since it is slippery” and some other arguments. The choice is yours, but it works great for us. Their second version of it, they made much thicker, so it could have been the first, thinner type that guys did not like. For us it is not slippery, as my guys walked on it 20 minutes after a light rain, on a 8:12 pitch roof (of course wearing a harness)

Any way… I&W should definitely be on valleys and drip-edge (eaves), also end-wall (roof to wall). We do not use it around chimneys. We do however runt the underlayment 6 inches up the chimney, and make it water-tight even if it rains overnight. Than we use aluminum (or steel) flashing and counter-flashing. It never leaks :slight_smile:

When you have a choice, always go with aluminum. It does not rust, so if roof is installed properly, it will last a lifetime. With steel you always have a chance of rust (not to say that it will, but it

To Gweedo,

Strength of metal panel is not important here as it is not structural. Longevity is a factor. Classic roof costs 3-4 times the asphalt (it is not a v5 crimp panel that any joe-shmo can buy at a local lumber yard), and for the money you should get a life-time roof. That is why we always go with aluminum if possible.


#9

LA,

Thanks very much for the advice you have provided, it’s much appreciated!

You sold me on the GAF Deck Armor, I will also specify Grace I&W.

Do you have any experience with Airvent: Shinglevent II ridge vents? My roof is a 4/12 gable. Some people say stay away from a ridge vent, because the slope is too low and snow will blow in (don’t know if I already mentioned that I live in Ontario, Canada and we get lots of snow!). Also, are there any issues with having to replace or clean the internal filter at some point from dirt or insect buildup?

On a slightly different note, these steel roof salespeople are really quite convincing. Their arguments that a G90 steel roof is superior to aluminum is quite convincing. They quote that G90 is self healing because the zinc will migrate to any weak spots in the steel (from a bend or a cut) and hence won’t rust. They also keep touting how strong steel is and how aluminum doesn’t have a watertight 4 way interlocking mechanism and that aluminum isn’t strong enough to walk on (even with a styrofoam backing). Not sure if you can comment on any of this, but I tell you it sure is extremely confusing for the end consumer. I thought I was pretty much settled on getting a Classic Products rustic shingle alum roof, but these guys keep making me second guess myself. sigh…

Thanks, Mason


#10

mason, have you had a look at this company in CA ?

permanentroofing.com/


#11

you have to cut metal with tin snips to avoid
heating it and cuasin it to rust.
been there, done that.

gweedo.


#12

to mason:

here is what we use for ridge vent: http://www.gaf.com/Content/GAF/RES1/ROOF/CobraExhaustVent.html Cobra will not let the snow through. You can’t really clean a ridge vent. Don’t worry about this stuff - it should not leak.

As for steel sales people saying steel is superior to aluminum:

Rustic shingle has a pattern that make it very sturdy. It is made of thinner aluminum than oxford shingle, but still, you can walk on it very easy (just when it is not wet). I personally prefer the oxford shingle as it is low profile and more versatile in terms of installation than rustic. Also due to rustic’s design it tend to “bow” when you install the last row at the ridge and cut it horizontally (this is just personal dis-preference). Besides that both systems are great.

You will dent both steel and aluminum just a easy if you are not careful. You will not see any dents from the ground anyway so you don’t have to worry about this. Besides, why would you go on the roof? I have never been on the roof of my house… what is there to do??? :mrgreen:

What is the brand of the steel roof you are looking at and what is the price difference? Did you do your due diligence on both companies installing these metal roofs? Like i’ve said before it is up to the installed if your roof will leak or not. Most roofing systems are thoroughly designed and should not leak when installed properly.

With aluminum you always know it will not rust. As for steel, g90 is good stuff and so is galvalume. There is a distinct difference between the two, but i don’t want to go into details - you can google it.

Truth is we always recommend aluminum vs steel as it is permanent roofing material and we don’t have to worry about rust.

PS, the steel roof in question - is it a standing seam or an architectural shingle/tile/shake? Again, who is the manufacturer?