Ice & Water shield + new soffit vents?


#1

4/12 ranch house in Northern Virginia, getting re-shingled tomorrow.

When replacing the unventilated soffits today with ventilated, it became clear that a lot of the plywood at the roof edge is rotted out to about 8" back. I called the roofer to warn him there would be plywood work and he asked if I wanted to pay extra for Ice & Water shield on the first 36". Any opinions on whether this is necessary now that the soffits are ventilated?

I’m not trying to be picky, just not further blow my budget if isn’t really necessary, and I’ve never noticed other houses getting this treatment here.

Thanks


#2

[quote=“DMorgan”]4/12 ranch house in Northern Virginia, getting re-shingled tomorrow.

. Any opinions on whether this is necessary now that the soffits are ventilated?

Thanks[/quote]

I dont think the soffits had anything to do with the rotten plywood,but there are a few things that can cause this to happen,some pictures would be nice,but your roofer should look for the cause and correct it when he installs your new roof.


#3

[quote=“bushhog109”]

[quote=“DMorgan”]4/12 ranch house in Northern Virginia, getting re-shingled tomorrow.

. Any opinions on whether this is necessary now that the soffits are ventilated?

Thanks[/quote]

I dont think the soffits had anything to do with the rotten plywood,but there are a few things that can cause this to happen,some pictures would be nice,but your roofer should look for the cause and correct it when he installs your new roof.[/quote]

the first 8 inches of the roof was rotted probably because of ice build up at the edges. which ice & water shield should correct (actually not correct but prevent the damage ice creates). also properly ventalating the roof will reduce ice build up at the eves.

 How much extra did he want and how many feet are your eves. its a very easy install and he should only charge maybe 10% higher than the cost of the ice & water shield. it wont hurt to have.

#4

I agree,I would run the shingles on a 4" exposure on a 4/12 pitch,I think a lot of roofers dont but I would request that he did.In our area it is required on a 4/12 pitch and under.


#5

Thanks for the lightning quick responses!

I was under the impression that adding soffit vents would keep the eaves cooler and therefore help prevent thawing of built-up snow and ice which would then wick into the roof deck.

The eaves / soffits? are 15".

He wants $100 per roll installed. I’m pretty sure this is a bit more than 10%, but perhaps he has to go get it.

Also - it is normal to replace the entire 4x8 sheet of plywood, or just rip a 1’ or 2’ strip at the edge?

Thanks again


#6

He isnt making a killing off of that price,it is pretty expensive.I didnt realize you got a lot of snow in your area,we dont have to worry about that too much south of Atlanta.Good luck on your new roof.


#7

A roll of good ice and water is abotu 50 bucks, really good around 75. Depends on what he uses. Plywood is replaced in 4x8 sheets if this guy wants to replace small strips then he should not be roofing for many reasons. Have him replace the whole sheet. It will take longer to replace the smalled pieces than 1 sheet.


#8

i concur


#9

that is correct.


#10

I am with the others when it comes to replacing full sheets at a time.
It is a bad idea to use Osb less than 12" wide or so, it will break under foot traffic and deflect under normal loads over time.

A 2 sq roll (3’ X 75’) of Grace\Vycor is $105 in my area before taxes.
A 2 sq roll (3’ X 65’) of Certainteed HT is $95.
All other Ice & water shields are total junk in comparison to the 2 I listed, IMHO.


#11

I don’t know code for Virginia (my Dad lives in Lexington, so I do know what the snow chances are), however I would think an I&WS is required for your region; it should have been a line item option. I also agree that $ 100.00 is not out of the question (doesn’t really take long to install, so it’s not that bad a price point).

I also think that a 4:12 is going to hold a lot more snow than a 7:12 - that’s what we call a slightly steep but still “easily walkable” roof. Make sure the I&WS is installed to the right distance up ABOVE the warm wall (the outside wall of the house).

I’m in Texas… you Yankees will have to refresh me; is the correct distance 3’ above the warm wall? Don’t forget about lining your valleys & hips plus all around your pipe penetrations & chimneys.


#12

After pulling off the gutters on roofing day, it turns out the rotted plywood problem may be related to having an exposed 1" overhang over the gutter.

I went ahead and had the snow & ice shield installed. I don’t know what brand it was, but they said it was $70/roll, so I’m assuming it isn’t the high end stuff. As a reference point for here, Tamko & GAF dimensional 30AR shingles run $49-55/sq.

They replaced 2’ along the entire edge. They would’ve probably replaced the entire 4’ section, but I probably gave them the mistaken impression I was trying to be overly cheap. I didn’t realize OSB was under $7/sheet and they would charge $20/sheet to replace. I also made the mistake of not getting on this board before giving further instructions to them. I hope at the minimum the 36" snow & ice shield holds the two 2’ sheets together and stiffens them up a bit.

I’m not sure what code is either in Virginia, but I’m pretty sure the two houses behind me didn’t get it when their roof’s were done recently.

While I didn’t have time to get educated on the details of snow & ice shield, I do know I got a better roofing job based on the input from you folks on this board. Thanks!


#13

The overall cost per square is certainly cheaper here in Texas (on what we’re charged for parts as well what we charge customers for labor), however ~ 27.00 - 30.00 per sheet installed is a lot less than what I charge.

Parts here are somewhat similar in pricing (I only use 7/16" SolarBond & paid 8.66 per sheet for 50 pcs on Friday, as compared to the "non" SolarBond @ 6.44).

Labor: I usually charge anywhere from 65.00 to 85.00 or more per sheet.

My fees amounts vary depending on 1 or 2 story, pitch, difficulty of location (i.e. having to fully rebuild around a chimney), etc. I did a house recently where I cut them an even lower price on the job as a whole & the decking / fascia extras, but then the wife has cancer & even though they didn’t ask for it it was far & away an unbeatable price. We ended up having to totally rebuild a 4’ section all along the back end of the house:

PS: The last photo is what I call an “establishment” shot - it shows almost as much back yard as roof so the customer knows it’s their house & not some stock footage of a damaged roof. This customer was called out of town & wasn’t able to be there when we did the repair.


#14

20 dollars a sheet does not cover everything involved. Let see…

Gas
time to get
nails
guy to install
insurance on truck
laborer to carry i could go on

I would not do for 20 im at 40 a pop and im cheap on wood since the boss buys it by the semi load when its on sale.

It costs me 25 to install 1 sheet of wood, now i dont do things for free so what do you think i should charge. Can i drive your car to get the wood, better yet do you want to take time from work and go and get the piece of wood, oh yea you have to hike it up the roof and install it for 20 bucks. Seriously. 3 bucks a foot on 1x6 you would have a stroke if i had to replace 300 feet of it. Im sorry im just sick of the what do you mean its 7 bucks in the store line. If you wanted to pay 7 bucks why am i here doing your roof anyway??? :smiley:


#15

gtp1003: I think I didn’t make my point as clear as I should have – I didn’t realize it would only cost $7/sheet and only cost $20/sheet to install. I was expecting it to be much more than this.