The Leak’s generally are between wall and flashing and I prefer to layer a roof each layer providing another barrier, when you start getting fancy trying to alternate you break the layer down
I have a response to the discussion on step vs continuous flashing first of all a solid piece of steel is better than pieces,example roll flashing I've seen a lot of Jobs with straight flashing and I never seen a leak because they weren't stepped,
And by the way tar is essential in installation of flashing it began in the 1900s and is still being used,thats gotta be a sign.so installation of flashing in a row with the proper use of tar is just as effective as step
well this gave me a little laugh. Continuous flashing on a side wall is not
the correct way to do it. It is generally the choice of homeowners without
the knowledge to know that the flashing needs to be stepped. Or by a
carpenter playing roofer for smaller jobs.
The reason you use step flashing is so that it keeps pushing the water
back on top of the shingles. with a continuous flashing the water will work
its way in on its way down. It either needs to be on top the whole way or
on bottom the whole way and both leave you vulnerable for leaks. most roofs
with continuous flashings are depending on the caulking usually caked on
that will eventually fail. It may not always leak, but it is by far not the
right way to do it. Except when it is against a head wall. When we have
continuous flashing we have to remove it and install steps. I recommend you
do the same.
Southers Construction, Inc
We used to caulk flash when we found it if the homeowner didn’t want to pay for the upgrade. By caulk flash I mean caulk under and secure it down. Then run a bead of caulking along each shingle to stop water from running back. Being sure to leave an eighth to quarter inch gap for a water trail.
Now we make sure the salesman spot it and charge for it. If it’s a tight j we won’t hit the salesman and consider it an unforeseen. But it has to be replaced whether the homeowner pays or we do it for them.
Perfectly discribed Southers sir! Continuos wall flashing (other than tile roofs) is sooooooo wrong!
We install new steps on every roof, install new steps and reglet cut counters on all masonry walls. It’s in the price they get from us, clearly stated in the contract, if they don’t want it they can find somebody cheaper.
Continuous wall flashing fail. They might work where it doesn’t show, but here in the northeast they don’t have a chance with freeze fall cycles.
The only application for Continuous flashing is certain types of time, even there many seem to nOf fabricate thenproperly, either not making there back bend large enough, or crushing it too flat. Even done properly in tile the debris needs to be cleaned out of the channel periodically to keep them functioning properly.
Sorry snow not show,
Types of time not time…sorry posting on phone
Continuous base flashing is what everyone does in north florida.
About 50/50 on the counter flashing.
The way we do it is great underlayment under flashing.
Then roofing cement under flashing,
Then thick on top of flashing.
And then i "counter cement"
I cement between each shingle…
Although several of my guys dont believe the last step is necessary.
“J” flashing is lazy at best and witchcraft at worst.
Please feel free to use “J” flashing on a slate roof. I double dog dare you.
While you’re at it, please show me on the manufacturer’s installation instructions where “J” flashing is specified.
Also, what is this “tar” stuff you’re talking about? Tar? Like from the La Brea Tarpits?
C’mon. Get out of here with that talk.
Is code in florida.
If you dont use it,
Your roof fails inspection and you wont be able to install any more roofs legally.
We have the toughest codes in the nation.
And all codes are strictly enforced.
Two city inspections on every roof.
Some regions require 3.
On new construction All metal has to be installed and inspected before shingling can begin.
Eve drip, valley metal and flashing.
Well, you cant do that with step flashing.
Step flashing gets installed at the same time as the shingle installation.
Now Most new construction builders are using ice and water shield only in the valley. ( no metal)
Because it is acceptable and cheaper.
I disagree with it.
Florida needs to have it’s own sub.
So can I blame Florida the next time I have to get the big ax out of the truck to take apart a beautiful 200yo slate or tile roof to replace flashing after the last guy used for 10 gallons of roof cement to “fix” it?
Im talking about asphalt roofs
Not slate, tile or metal…
Lordy Florida guys! Cement under flashing, over flashing, under shingles, flipping everywhere!! We do not use roofing cement (tar) on any step flashing here, because we use step flashing! It’s only needed on continuous wall flashing because it’s not the right way to do it, water should always be brought back out to daylight! I.e. the top of the roof. Just because it diesnt leek doesn’t make it proper. You could smear mastic everywhere with no shingle and make a roof “not leak”
I don’t like it done that way either but that’s the code in florida so you have no choice.
We worked in Pensacola after Ivan, and that didn’t require it, at least st that time. They had the mastic all over the bottoms to seal starter to drip edge and first course to starter within 3 miles of shoreline, but we used step flashing on all walls with no rejections from the city. Maybe it’s changed, but more than likely it’s just your particular city or county that’s making this bad decision.
Please excuse my abbreviated message sent via iPhone
I will try to look up the offical code later. I was there winter of 2009 and 2010 and worked everywhere from Tampa to coca beach and between. Not a single one of the roofs I tore off ever had step flashing on them. I agree that step flashing is the superior way to do, but I don’t write Florida codes.
Section 1507.2.9 of the Florida Building Code 6th edition 2017 states that:
“Flashing for asphalt shingles shall comply with this section or RAS 111. Flashing shall be applied in accordance with this section, the asphalt shingle manufacturer’s printed instructions or the RAS 111” Section 1507.2.9.1 says the same thing only references “base flashing” in particular.
The manufacturer’s printed instructions are what ARMA recommends, ie…step flashing. ARMA’s installation manual under “flashing”, states that ”roof planes that butt against vertical walls at the end of shingle courses are best protected by metal “flashing shingles” placed over the end of each course. The method is called “step flashing”. GAF even shows this same method in their application manual.
So it is not mandated by code in Florida, it is one of three allowed sources of guidance on how to do it, and the only one recommended by the most recognized source in the asphalt shingle world. So if you also believe it’s the best way, you are free to do so under Florida code.