How much should I charge to replace rotten/damaged sheathing


#1

I just realized after re-roofing some older homes with pine slats that charging $25.00 per sheet of plywood was way off. Mexicans took over new home market so I’m turning to the re-roofs in our area to “make it”.
I charged $4.00 per linear foot and ripped a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 rather than buying individual boards. I’ve been a roofer for for 25 years in my area and feel like I should know! Anyhow, I’m getting the jobs and do excellent work. Thank God for “word of mouth”. If anyone could turn me in the right direction, I would appreciate it. Should I charge by the sq. ft or linear ft? Thanks


#2

Hi,

Charge by how much the material costs plus how long it takes you to pick up material and install it.


#3

I charge differently for all sorts of situations. To go over the deck with plywood is the cheapest per square foot because it’s fairly quick. To spot replace the 3/4 by 8 is pretty expensive per square foot, because it is time consuming. I’m with Lefty on this, you need to determine the value of your time, and charge them the cost of materials plus how long it will take you to get it and install it. There is no set price to do anything if you want to stay in business long. You can’t be worried about what others are charging because they’re not paying you bills.


#4

ditto all that pretty much.
most of the structures in my area need a couple a sheets
here and couple a 2x4s there and i try to just hide it in the price.
get the good price and just do it.

yes, thank god, at home depot there rippin down 1" plywood for all us
cheap but good roofers.
hey that would be a good company name,
" cheap good roofin".

i kill me.

gweedo


#5

I appreciate you responses. I was thinking along the lines of how do I incorporate the woodwork on my proposals. I just guessed and charged $4.00 per linear foot which now I think was too much. I didn’t want to gank the HO. I ripped three sheets and installed two 1x6x10 for $614. Probably sq ft is how I should have charged. Anyhow, job is done, HO happy.
Glad to have found this site. Didn’t ever think a bunch of roofers would get together like this. I’m in SC. Work my fingers to the bone.
:!:


#6

just develop a standard contract and fill in the blanks to simplify it. The price of the anticipated woodwork should be determined per job. This takes some foresight, but make sure you have your “unforeseen circumstances” paragraph in there.


#7

Hi,

That was under me.

$90 for a sheet of 1/2" cdx.

$8 a foot for 1x’s


#8

[quote=“Lefty”]$90 for a sheet of 1/2" cdx.

$8 a foot for 1x’s[/quote]

I’m on the same tack as Lefty.

I don’t do much of the installation myself; the crew gets a minimum of 30.00 per sheet (typical in my area is 20.00) & I add a fiver for 8:12 - 9:12, + $ 10 for 10:12 - 11:12, etc.

This is all priced accordingly to the customer; I somewhat base my estimates on how much to charge due to some variables that some might consider unethical (not trying to hijack this thread, but it’s not 100% consistent with all customers).

My standard rule of thumb is $ 80.00 - 85.00 per sheet (with maximum repairs per sheet, i.e. two decking patches of around 4’ x 4’ is charged & paid @ the rate of one sheet) & I have been known to modulate this base charge down for the destitute single mom’s & increase the rate for the pain in the ass customers or situations where I have to possibly bid lower than I’d like & hope to get some $$ on the backside if there are unforseen decking issues.

I also charge about 7.50 per linear ft. for shiplap & closer to 8.00 on up to $ 10.00 for shiplap on a hip roof (those end mitre cuts are a pain in the ass for a suck carpenter like me).

I estimate 40.00 minimum P & L (15/32" or 7/16" OSB is around 10.00 + tax here in Central Texas) & the rest is profit for time & effort on making the drive.

BTW, 15# & 30 # felt is around 14.00 per roll here. I recently installed some CertainTeed 4sq 30 # rolls @ around 18.50 per roll.


#9

I would say, if you need a number to start, go w/ $2 a sq. ft. for plywood sheets. You are in SC, and while that may not be enough, it should get you started and you can figure out from there if it is enough or not


#10

This question is to Lefty. I swear I’ll leave ya’ll alone after I ask you this…the $8.00 per foot, for the 1x do I measure linear or sq ft?
I really appreciate all of the responses. I never imagined that this wood thing would become an issue. Was used to new work and never gave the prices and measurement much thought due to limited tear-offs.
Hope ya’ll have a good weekend. :smiley:


#11

this is what I explain to customers… it’s a pretty broad answer, but its usually better than my competitors that like to sugar-coat everything, and purposely withhold the possibility of extra’s… as a matter of fact, I’ll show you the email I sent to one to explain it… this was from probably a year ago, so don’t use the prices, as wood has gone WAY up…

its long, but check it out. this is how I roll, nobody here has ever seen this side of me…

Sounds good. I’ll give you a check tomorrow or Saturday.
BJ
----- Original Message -----
From: “mike severance” mikesgrt@yahoo.com
To:
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2005 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: Proposal for roof

BJ,

In reference to the wood replacement, heres how it
goes. The sheathing option I will choose will depend
on how much of an area has rot if any. I will include
1 8 in. x 16 foot (12 sq. ft.) if it is only minor
repairs, at no cost to you. After that, and to a
certain point, I will cut out and replace wood at a
rate of $3.50 per linear 8 in. board ($4.66 p/sq/ft).
If a roof is ripped and there is a lot of wood to
replace, replacing boards in that manner becomes too
tedious and labor intensive. In such a case, if half
or more of a section needs to be replaced, it is more
cost efficient and less headaches to replace the
entire section with 3/4" plywood over the existing
wood. To define section for your roof, I would explain
that your roof I view to be 4 sections. Each of the
large sides would each be a section in their own
right, and the two smaller sections that run into the
walls are sections in their own right also. To go over
the existing section with plywood, a rate of $2.00
p/sq/ft. would apply. Still another option, lets say
that about a third of the section needs replacement
and there is plywood under there already, it may be
more cost-efficient to rip out individual sheets of
plywood and replace them with plywood, and this I can
do at a rate of $3.50p/sq/ft.

Let me close that subject on one note. This is a
really tough question for any roofer to answer.
Fortunately, you asked in the correct way, p/sq./ft.
Neither you or I want to see any rot, believe me. But
until its all off, I dont know whats under that roof.
My experience leads me to believe, from the location
of the house, the architectural style, and the era it
was built,that there will be very little rot if any
when I rip that roof. Due to the ventilation it has
and the rough age, I am lead to believe dry rot will
not be present. The bottom edge of the back roof with
the gutter looks suspect to me. I believe it has some
indications that there may be ice damming caused by
the combination of the presence of the gutter, the
slope of the roof, and the application standards of
that roofs era (no ice and water barrier).

I’m sorry if I made this very time-consuming,
confusing, or complicated. You seemed to be able to
grasp what I was telling you, and I reiterate, it’s a
tough question, but you deserve the right answer. Most
contractors put that as a cost plus materials deal,
but I believe you do deserve to know up front, what
the worst case scenario is, or otherwise, it is you
that is taking all the risk. Bottom line appears to
be, worst case scenario, 2700 sq. ft. x 2.00= $5400.

Regarding a tentative start date, it is dependent alot
on when we can close the deal if we do. From the time
I get a check, I need a few days to pull permit,
suppliers to pick and deliver orders. A lot of it
depends on the way it falls in place. Currently, I’m
hoping to get the deal done, contract signed and
motion in progress on either Saturday or Sunday early;
or even tomorrow night, with construction beginning on
Wednesday or so, dependant on the delivery
availability. I have a job that will finish no earlier
than Tuesday, so I cant get there sooner.

Okay, I’ve got to hurry now. Last thing I’ll mention
to you is that I need to add a wind limit equal to
GAF’s on the warranty. Your present copy doesnt have
one.

I will put everything here in writing if you feel need
be, or we could even make it easier and I’ll sign this
email. Whatever you want.

Sincerely,
Mike

wrote:

Mike,

I’d like you to do the job. How much will it cost
per square foot if there
is rot under the roof? When can you begin?
BJ Rippberger
----- Original Message -----
From: “mike severance” mikesgrt@yahoo.com
To:
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 1:07 PM
Subject: Proposal for roof

Hi BJ,

I’ve attached a proposal for the roof. If theres
anything you would like to be reworded just let me
know and I will make the changes. Also, I’m
including
a link to a website where you can check a
contractors
registration, where it also lays out the rules of
the
registration program, laws that are to be abided
by
when entering a home improvement contract, and
advice
from the Commonwealth of Massachusetts on protocol
of
selecting a contractor. My registration number is
146112. So, here is the link. Have a look around.

mass.gov/bbrs/hic.htm

I hope that everything is to your liking and I
hear
from you soon.I pretty much have at least that 3
days
available any week, weather pending, and if
weekends
are ok. But if the numbers are right for you, give
me
a call and we can talk about scheduling at that
time.If you have any further questions, feel free
to
call me at 781-244-3317

Thanks for your consideration of my services,
Michael Severance


#12

I should say that my prices seem low compared to others. They are. For two reasons:
1st of all my price is too low.
2nd of all, we rarely “fetch” a sheet of plywood. I usually have a minimum of 10 in stock in my truck at all times. And if I need more, I will fetch 20 or so, and put extra back into the truck.
Yes I will charge for the hr or so it takes to get it, but divide 20 sheets or so by 1 hr. and the impact isn’t so great.
If you have to get 3, 5 or 8 sheets at a time, it will indeed get costlier


#13

Hi,

Linear


#14

puttin in the time s&g.
nice of you.
the site is benifited.

gweedo.


#15

This past Monday did a 20 year old 5/12 house/roof due to hail and was amazed how much osb had roted. Under most of the air vents there was an area of rot large enough to put a basket ball in. Around the chimney on a few spots no osb left and even on some spots were there wasn’t a vent there was rot in the osb. 5 sheets repaired the mess and since it was a insurance job at $380 a square figured why bother asking for more money. Told the home owner what I did and took pictures and said some roofers whould have charged you up to $500.

Most jobs I walk off pretty good and feel confident when I bid that if wood needs to be replaced $50 an hour for carpentry work. In the past 100 or so tear offs I think I’ve had to ask two home owners for extra money.

If a job may need to be re-decked it’s always included in the estimate as a worse case scenario.


#16

Dougger, insurance pays (top end) around $ 150.00 per square here in Texas, so there’s no way I can be quite that friendly.

I do try to come out on the correct end of a referral, however, so often I’ll price out the estimate around 80.00 (or more) per full sheet & when it comes time to do the repairs (& need pre-authorization) I'll remind them of the estimate figure & then offer tham a savings of 70.00… but again, like in my post above this depends on how thin I had to price the job to begin with.

If it’s a fairly low margin project, I might go for full payment on the decking & of course this pricing also depends on how steep the roof is or how many stories.

Oh, & when I do decking repair (whether OSB or plank) I always add a ‘bonus’ brace of 2x4 / 6 to the rafters soas to give more structural reinforcement to the decking. I hate it when the end or edge of a piece of decking is only being held up or supported by less than 1" of 2x.


#17

typically replace 1x6 w/1x6 not ply strips as theyre weaker that way unless its a decent section you can square off for plywood—90.00 per sheet for3/4"is accurate,per linear ft. it`s usually about 3.00 per linear ft (64 linear ft per plywood sheet =192.00)for 1x6 pine


#18

I charge 55.00 per sheet for 1/2 and 65.00 for 3/'4 :slight_smile:


#19

I am all they way up here in Alaska i charge $55-65 for 1/2 osb and 80-90 for 3/4 0r 4 for 2x6 t&g lineal