How far should shingles hang over drip edge?


They took most of the debris with them. (They left a couple rolls of nails and about 20 packs work of cigarette butts), so I can’t say what was used for frost/water protection underneath the shingles. I’ll ask the owner today when I meet him, though, exactly what they did for that 3’ from the edge.

Well, if GAF says 1/2" from the drip-edge, I take that as gospel. Anyone know where I can find documentation? I’d like to print something up for the contractor in-case he disagrees.

To be honest, the fact that I can’t get my hand in the gutter without a glove is about all I need, at this point, in my humble, non-professional-roofer opinion.

I’ll let you know how it all turns-out and close this thread. Thanks to everyone for the opinions and discussion about my problem. I makes me much more confident when I deal with the contractor now.


I am guessing that the GAF 1/2" spec is just a “Recommendation”, since this would be a ludicrous point to invalidate a shingle warranty or installation if it were 3/4" or 1" overhang.

3" is obviously too much, but really can be trimmed off as easy as I told you before.

If 1/2" were the only accepted overhang, why would so many posters in this thread recommend slight variances that they do?



Ed, I once heard of a contractor having to go to small claims vs. a customer who wouldn’t pay because the shingle was 1/16" past the 1/2" listed on the wrapper.

No info as to the outcome.


I can believe that pettiness.

I really don’t think the amount of overhang is part of the strict accordance specifications, like ventilation is.

I think it is suggested Best practices, but there needs to be room allowed for accommodating building variances.

If that was the only issue going to a court case for, I sure hope the Judge had some common sense.



Buy a leaf blower. No need to get your hands dirty.


I thiunk it’s “Improvements” that sells something that looks like a shepherd’s crook & connects to the garden hose. You can even make your own out of PVC components available @ “Big Orange Box”.

You put a shutoff gate valve near the water source & a spray nozzle @ the top end. No need to get on a ladder, just hook it into the gutter & turn on the pressure. A few passes should get you moving along quite nicely.


From the Looks of those pictures the shingles are hanging over too far. I would also agree that the valley looks pretty novice. I would talk to the roofer and let him know how unhappy you are!


The owner told me he’d come by on Wednesday and called in the morning to say he wasn’t going to be able to make it because of doctors appointments.

He said he’d have one of his foremen come over and take a look.

I get a call this morning from the secretary saying that a foreman went to my house, but I wasn’t there, so he checked this, that and the other thing and everything seemed okay.

I managed to restrain myself and not take it out on her, but I made it crystal clear that I want to BE there and show someone exactly what I’m seeing and get a personal answer that it’s the way it should be.


I don’t know much about the situation with the valley, why it looks like a novice job. At this point, it’s clear to me that attention to detail isn’t a strong-point for this company. Like I said, I did my research, but I guess it wasn’t good enough.


That type of metal is made so that you run the metal even with the metal.


run the shingles even with the metal,
thank you sjb.



running it even with the metal drip edge is a hack way for common sense reasons previously mentioned. 1/2" off drip at eaves. 3/4" rakes “no drip edge needed on rakes”.


you can take a few courses off and adjust them and fix your problem.and 1/4 inch overhang is what you want.


i think i was just called a hack.
been called worse.
been called worse here.



Wow… haven’t seen that in a while.


Every one from florida will tel you to run it flush,because they bull all eave metal there.Ive roofed in New Orleans where 2 inchs into the gutter is very common,we go from a half inch to one inch over the eave ive seen way to much rotten facia and soffit from running flush.If the facia board has any rise in it will back flow into the soffit.To much overhang is definetly better then none.Your gutter is that a 4 inch vinyl gutter?If so i wouldnt expect to get my hand in it and it probalby needs that as those mounts push it away from the eave.A better picture of the gutter would help,but looking at it your roofer may have done it to make sure the water doesnt run behind the gutter.As gutters go those vinyl gutters are not really of any quality.


Psst… Robert, the OP posted that A year and half ago.


It was a long day yesterday. :smiley:


[quote=“roofingdenver”]Wow… haven’t seen that in a while.[/quote]

Do us a favor & quit necroposting just to get your site URL out there.

Go ahead & man up - put an ad on the Roofing Business tab & get it over with, OK?


Old post but it came up with search about overhang and it’s a good topic.

I just had a roof replaced with GREAT OwensCorning Durations. I replaced about 50’ of fascia and 30’ of sub-fascia because of rot from no drip edge combined with “too-high” fascia in several areas making a shallow ‘gutter’ in the shingles above the gutter.

New roofers screwed up in back with about 1/4-1/2" of overhang from the gutter apron - water is wicking up to the gutter apron and running behind the gutters. They put I&W on top of the apron so water shouldn’t hit wood, but this is sloppy. The overhang is about 1" at each end of the ~50" run in back, those shingles have drooped, and water runs into the gutter as it should. I’m probably going to put some flashing between gutter apron and starter row and seal it top and bottom - the proper way would be to remove a couple courses and fix it right, but these Durations are stuck solid already. I might void warranty but don’t care so much at this point. I don’t want the same clowns messing with my roof anymore - I’d rather pay another company to fix it.

OP is fortunate that there’s too much overhang because too much can be cut, though I’d be careful about snapping a line because the problem on my roof happened because the fascia isn’t straight - the shingles look straight, so the fascia must bow out about 1/2". Now I know why there’s a small “tent” in the shingles about midway… there wasn’t enough overhang so they pulled the starter strip out to give it a bit more. Proper way (I assume) would be to have 1" overhang in center with 1.5" at ends, then trim it to get 1" all along the back… but this would take extra time and these guys’ main purpose seemed to be getting it done ASAP.


I miss gweedo!!
I hope he is still alive and kickin!