How far should shingles hang over drip edge?


#1

I just had a new roof put on my house. It was a complete removal of old shingles with new drip edge, freeze guard, etc.

I’m not a roof expert, but I knew my old roof well. I’ve cleaned the gutters out 4 or 5 times since I bought the house a year ago. Now, with the new roof on, I have trouble getting my hand in the gutter.

I didn’t have this problem before. The contractor said the old shingles extended too far over the edge, so now they must REALLY hang too far over.

Is there a standard extension length for new shingles hanging over the drip edge?

Thanks.


#2

Hi,if the roofer used an extended drip edge flashing the shingles should be even with the outer edge of the perimeter of the dripedge. However, if they used an “L” type metal flashing or no flashing at all, then the starter course and the shingles must be extended beyond the perimeter eve and rake edges 1/4 to 3/4 inch. 8)


#3

Thanks for the response. A couple of questions:

  1. How do I determine if extended drip edge or “L” type metal flashing was used?
  2. If the former, what is the “outer edge of the perimeter of the drip edge”?
  3. What’s the “starter course”?

Sorry… I may have learned a lot about roofs over the past month, but that’s relative to the fact I knew NOTHING when I started! I’m not sure of the terminology.

The owner is coming-out to look at the job on Wednesday. If you can help me out with this even further, I’d appreciate it. Thanks again.

– I live in Akron, Ohio.


#4

How about two photos; one from about 10’ away & the more important one (in relation to your question) from about 1’ away with a measuring tape showing the extension off the fascia?


#5

You got it. I was planning on measuring around the house tonight already. I’ll post pix when I have them.


#6

1/2" if a drip edge is used, 3/4" if no drip edge is used.


#7

if ya cant get your hand in there because the shingles
are hangin over to far, then tell roofer to cut them back to the edge metal so you can get your hand in your gutter to clean out leaves.

gweedo.


#8

1/2" pass the drip “any kind of drip” with a gutter.
3/4" to 1" if there is no gutter. remember 8th grade science class when they talked about capillary action ? We call it wicking in roofing lingo. never go flush to drip, water will wick and stain the facia and get bahind the gutter.


#9

Okay, here’s the deal. Tonight, I measured all around the perimeter of the house where there were gutters. From the end of the upper lip of the “drip edge” (see image for what I think the drip edge is) the shingles, on average, extend an extra 3/4" of an inch. In the back of my house, where I have concerns of water coming-in the basement, there’s about 2 1/2" max space from the edge of the shingles to the inside edge of the gutter (see picture with my hand) which makes it a tight fit to get my hand in. To be sure, it’s less space than what was available prior to the new roof.

On the drip edge, I measure from the back of the piece (what I think is the “fascia”) to the extended lip of the piece (looking from the side it looks like an inverted, capital L), this measures about a 1/2".

So, on average, the shingles extend a full inch from the fascia, including the drip edge.

http://sandbox.unionandparkwood.com/online_images/drip_edge.jpg
This is what’s under the shingle, what I think is the “drip edge”. The shingles extend 3/4" past the end of the upper lip of this piece.

http://sandbox.unionandparkwood.com/online_images/hand.jpg
Hand gives perspective of about 2 1/2" inch clearance.

Sorry I couldn’t get better pictures. I worked late and had to scramble to get something at all before the light left.


#10

If its 3/4 of an inch past that drip edge the shingles are out too far. NOt impressed with that valley either.


#11

What’s wrong with the valley?

Yeah, I’m becoming less happy with this project the more I consider it. Overall, the job was sloppy: Clean-up was bad, caulking/sealing is ugly, etc.

Unfortunately, I interviewed five contractors: All were NARI certified, BBB listed, etc. The one I chose wasn’t the cheapest and was the one I liked the most and came recommended. It’s not like I didn’t do my homework!

Can someone tell me what that white, metal piece with the drip edge on it under the shingles is called? The owner is coming by tomorrow to look at the job and I’d like to know what to call it.

Thanks again for all your help.


#12

Just realized I have an important question: What is the proper way to fix this problem of overhang?

Is it simply shaving/chopping-off a 1/4" or so all around?


#13

Anywhere from a 1/2" to a 1" overhang is acceptable, as you can tell from the varying comments amongst the previous posters. Each has their own reasoning for a slightly different amount of overhang.

In my opinion, the shingles should never be exactly even with the edge of any drip edge flashing.

The drip edge flashing you depicted is called T-Drip Style or O.D.E., which stands for Overhanging Drip Edge.

Personally, I use an actual Gutter Apron Drip Edge Metal Flashing along all eave edges for my own reasoning, but many use the ODE at the eave instead.

The ODE should more properly be installed along the rake/gable edges of a house.

You can snap a chalk line on the shingles that are extended too far and use a hook blade to cut through them following the line, or you can use a pair of large jawed Bull Nose Tin Snips, like the one manufactured by Malcor, to cut off the shingles like cutting with scissors. If you use the tin snips, spray them with WD 40 every so often so they do not get gunked up with the asphalt from the shingles.

Ed


#14

With that style of drip edge i was always told 1/4 inch, any more willhave toubles with the gutter. If im not mistaken the drip extends from the roof about 3/4 of an inch to 1 inch. If you extend the shingle another inch that would be way too much.


#15

The drip edge flashing “lip” is 1/4" wide. The 3/4" overhang of the shingle creates a full 1" overhang from the fascia to the edge of the shingle.

Ed The Roofer – If what you say about fixing the problem (cutting the edge) is the proper way to do it, than I’m not terribly upset. I was worried that, because the edge shingle is the bottom layer, fixing this would require redoing it.


#16

I don’t see any underlayment or cement along the eave in the pic of the shingles being lifted. Did he put down I+W shield? If not then he should have at least used a line of cement over the drip edge. You may well run in to ice back up when winter comes… Not trying to be scaaaaary or anything.


#17

The contract says “…install ice & water shield @ all drip edges and valleys…” I remember his description was to install something that extended so far from the edges to prevent anything backing-up like you said. I believe this was done, though, I don’t know how to check.


#18

GAF says 3/8" past the drip edge.

I average about 1/2". Sometimes the fascia board is not straight and bows in and out. So if you line the starter with the drip edge at 1/2" out at the furthest inward point, the shingles could be closer to an inch.

When I worked for a storm chaser in Indianapolis a couple of years ago, there installer would install every roof with a 3" overhang…PATHETIC!


#19

3"?? Talk about your shingle droop!


#20

Shneider, if the trash is still on site look for the box the I+W came in. If not then you gotta try and see what is under the shingles along the bottom 3ft of the roof.