How far should a shingle stick out at the eaves?


#1

Three questions for a 4 x 12 roof.

At the eaves, how far over the drip edge should the ice & water shield extend?
At the eaves, how far should the shingles extend over the ice & water shield?
At the rake, how far should the shingles extend over the drip edge?

I know this is a minor point, but it seems that opinions vary, and I’d like to get a feel for this.


#2

The way that our company does stuff is as follows:
Ice shield goes over the drip edge and covers at least 1/2 the drip edge. It does not extend past the drip edge whatsoever.
2. 1/4" overhand on the eaves
3. 1/4" on the rakes. We run a starter shingle along the eaves as well as the rakes so from the underside, it is a clean neat appearance.

Feel free to ask any ?'s.


#3

we are the same as above except…all shingles are flush with the drip edge. i like the way it looks better & if anyone ever leans a ladder on it, it wont damage the shingles.


#4

We don’t usually use Ice & Water shields (Central Texas…) except on the corners of a hip roof or in troublesome valley areas, but if I do get a customer that wants to use it (no extra cost on labor, just parts), I run the layover @ least 1/2 way along the low side of drip edge, whether rake or eave.

Like Tim 71, I also use “true” starter strip vs. 3T flipped.

For placement of the shingle (extension over the rake or eave) I put it dead even with the outside edge of the drip edge. I use “DL” drip edge (my supplier’s name for it) which is the ‘lip’ type drip edge with a 1-1/2" drop / face & it spans the decking by 2-1/2".

Same reasons as Marshall; no denting or damage to the drip shingle edge. Further, I sometimes use an “H” brace (looks like a capital H laid flat & nailed into the roof deck) made of wood if there’s a gutter & the customer doesn’t want me to tie off against the house. Once we’re done, it is the last portion of shingles to be installed. I keeps the gutter from getting dented, scraped or crushed in & also prevents the ladder from sliding sideways.


#5

**At the eaves, how far over the drip edge should the ice & water shield extend? **
In temperate climates I would cover all but the last 1/2" on the edge metal. In colder climates where ice damming can be a problem, put the ice shield on first and run it a couple inches onto the facsia board. Put the edgemetal ontop.

At the eaves, how far should the shingles extend over the ice & water shield?
Manufacturers all have their specs but in my opinion it doesnt matter too much as long as its functional and the roof material isn’t left long enough to curl and droop. I’d say anywhere between 1/2"-1" is good, 1/4" is too short and anything longer than 1" is going to curl later on.

At the rake, how far should the shingles extend over the drip edge?
Same as the eaves shrug. I’ve had people ask me to do 3/4" on the eave and 1/2" on the rake, like it makes a difference. If you’re smart enough to figure out why that 1/4" makes the difference in the grand scheme of the universe then why did you become a roofer, heh. I run it same as the rake, it’s simple, uniform and functional; anything else is just splitting hairs.

"…all shingles are flush with the drip edge."
This is dead wrong, no manufacturer specs this because it’s a potential water infiltration hazard. If you want to keep ladders from damaging the roof edge/gutter use a stand off.


#6

I only use DL drip edge; it has a supported overhang & seals better. Plus, I ONLY use true starter strip. No water pens here…


#7

I have a head ache


#8

I figured I’d get varying opinions. I forgot about the starter course. I also forgot to mention the climate is SE Michigan.

So I believe consensus says to lay the ice & water shield over the drip edge end at the eaves, but to stop short of the very edge, then overhang the shingles 1/2" to 1", probably eyeballed is close enough.

Ladders aren’t an issue, the house is fully guttered at the eaves. The ladder does okay leaning aginst the gutter.


#9

Hello,

We use the first knuckle of our pointer finger (roughly one inch). That is for the eave and the rake.

Keith


#10

roofboy - what do you do if you have a guy who’s longest finger is his third finger and his first 2 are gone due to an childhood accident. That measurement would be different on every deck if different peeps do different decks. I lmake my guys stay consistent and dont use the guessing process.


#11

Hello,

Kestas asked for opinions so I gave him the way most shinglers do it in Alaska. Hey if you only have the third finger then by all means use it.
Most new construction houses are one straight side that is approx. 9 sq. The other side has two decks, one 6 to 7 sq and the other 2 to 3. I would do one side and my partner would do the other. The only issue could possibly be at the peak and that is very minimal if at all.
As far as the higher end houses with hips and valley (30+ sq) we may have to adjust were the hips meet but again, it is very minimal.
If you use the same finger across the eave at the same knuckle you should be consistent. If I end up finishing before my partner and there is space on his deck I will jump in and adjust my finger to match his overhang.

Keith


#12

To play it safe I usually run about a 3/4in overhang on both the rakes and eaves. Certainteed calls for a minumal of 1/4in oh when using drip edge and a minumal of 1/2in oh when useing no drip edge.

Not sure how many of you know but Certainteed calls for three installation methods with ice and water shield and drip edge.

#1 and perhaps the most common installation is drip edge first then ice and water over the drip edge.

#2 ice and water first layed over the top of the trim board, then drip edge over that. This method is recommended when ice in gutters is likely. The drip edge overlapped over the I/W doesn’t make sence but having all your wood covered with I/W sure does.

#3 which IMO is the best (if using gutters on new construction). Run the ice and water shield all the way past the point of the roof and covering up the entire face of the facia board then the drip edge on top. Had an inspector once recommend this method to me. The only problem I see with this is if no gutters are used and once the I/W starts to wrinkle/buckle it will make the facia look horrible.


#13

Found running chaulk lines to gauge your oh doesn’t work the best on crooked houses. When your only talking a half inch there isn’t much room for play. Eyeballing works the best except for the first and last bleeders on the rakes and eaves.

Thought about getting a small tatoo on my finger right at half an inch, but not a fan of body markings. Once met a roofer who had a exact replica of a coil of 1 1/14in roofing nails wrapped around his bicept, looked cool, even had sparkles on the tips.


#14

Well, I like to run the IWS down the fascia, the the apron at the gutter, then the shingles 3/4-1" over, cepending on who is starting the roof. I like to hang 3/4"-1" past the DL type of drip because capillary action will come into play, and water can roll over the edge of the shingles on the rake, and via capillary action, get into your roofing system.


#15

gaf specs call for fascia eave ice shield being 1/4" past backflashing/drip edge,my shingles hang over 1 1/2"at fascia 1" at rakes–ice shield at rake eavesgoes flush to the edge w/ the dripedge applied over the ice shield–i agree about the cappillary action aaron,though seems to me i`ve heard it somewhere before :wink: