Homeowner question about re-roof


#1

I am in a home that is 11 years old. We just made it through IKE with minor shingle damage.

I am considering a new roof, but also want to tear off the decking and replace it with tech shield or Polar Ply.

Since it would not be responsible to call a roofer at this time since they are swamped, I was wondering if I could get some guesstimates about what it would cost.

Here are some details:

  • 2 story home
  • Pitch unknown although steep but walkable
  • Need ridge vent reinstalled 20 feet approx
  • 2000 square feet of roof shingle
  • want tech shield or polar ply installed
  • have approx 8 vents or jacks on roof
  • 500 sq feet garage needs shingles only, but old
    removed
  • old roof and decking must be torn off on house

Thanks for any guestimates!


#2

What the heck is tech shield/polar ply and why do you think you need it?


#3

Thanks for your response, I don’t know if you are a roofer or just trying to be funny or what?

Polar Ply and Tech shield are proven products that reflect away radiant heat. It is 4 x 8 roof decking with foil material on one side.

I am not looking for a debate or a fight as to whether anyone believes in these products, just some general information on a re-roof.

If you are a roofer well up north, then I guess it is feasible you would not be aware of this product and its use in hotter southern climates.

Thanks.


#4

Let’s see… where to start? Hmmmm… first of all, you won’t get much in the way of a reliable figure from our Northern based contributors to this site as they have a vastly different fee schedule as compared to us Texans.

They are familiar with these products, but usually simply refer to them as radiant barrier foil decking (I’m in Austin, & will probably go back over to Beaumont & re-do some of the roofs I did 2 years ago once they get their insurance situation settled out).

Home Depot calls it SolarBond & I think Lowe’s product is ReflecTech.

As to “2000 square feet of roof shingle”, is this number based on the square footage of the house or do you have some sort of an actual ‘up & over’ measurement? You can’t base much on the square footage, especially if you’re a two story. Also, you don’t mention hip roof or gable & this will make a difference as well.

As to not calling a roofer right now, I don’t think it’s irresponsible to call us - we’re busy, of course, but if you have damage, then you have damage.

As to what the costs should be for a total redeck, the way I would charge is based on a time & effort calculation if you’re going with a ‘typical’ ½" OSB (this is based on an Austin price of around $ 8.75 per sheet; Houston may or may not be similar right now). A very cut up roof is going to cost a bit more due to the complexity & a steeper one as well.

Then there’s the labor for removing the old roof deck.

Do you happen to have any structural damage from Ike, or did you merely get peeled up by high winds? How old is the house? Any combo of gutters & tall trees that might have been dropping a lot of leaves or pine needles & maybe contributing to some rotten wood? If damaged, then you might need some additional work as well.

Ridge vent; well, over here, I don’t usually charge extra for ridge vent other than for product. Same goes for drip edge & lead jacks.

It also would be wise to make a ROI / CBR type decision on doing a total redeck. Certainly if you’re due for a total re-roofing (i.e. a ‘normal’ one with shingles off & then back on), this IS the time to do a re-deck as well. I just don’t know if the savings are going to be worth it in comparison to the costs.

Granted, it is a better way to go in regards to energy efficiency & MAY make the house more attractive should you wish to put it on the market… but the expense may not be worth it.

Provided your tree coverage isn’t too thick, you could always order a report from Eagle View Technologies (they use commonly available satellite images from the web to make a ‘rough’ calculation on your roof size & pitch).

So, if you wanted a rough figure, & if you WERE an actual 25 squares (100 sq. ft. = 1 sq) of removal, I guess I’d be charging around 2,500.00 to 3,000.00 as a base figure & then all the “usual” fees for the shingle off & on, which might be around 7,000.00 to 7,500.00 as a starting guess.

…Your mileage may vary.

I hope this gives you something to get started with.


#5

[quote=“RanchHandRoofing”]Let’s see… where to start? Hmmmm… first of all, you won’t get much in the way of a reliable figure from our Northern based contributors to this site as they have a vastly different fee schedule as compared to us Texans.

Thanks, I made an assumption that there would be viewers from all over on this forum

They are familiar with these products, but usually simply refer to them as radiant barrier foil decking (I’m in Austin, & will probably go back over to Beaumont & re-do some of the roofs I did 2 years ago once they get their insurance situation settled out).

Home Depot calls it SolarBond & I think Lowe’s product is ReflecTech.

As to “2000 square feet of roof shingle”, is this number based on the square footage of the house or do you have some sort of an actual ‘up & over’ measurement? You can’t base much on the square footage, especially if you’re a two story. Also, you don’t mention hip roof or gable & this will make a difference as well.

No, the house is 3600 sq ft. The house is basically 2 cubes of 1800 square feet. It has 2 hips one on the east and one on the west.

As to not calling a roofer right now, I don’t think it’s irresponsible to call us - we’re busy, of course, but if you have damage, then you have damage.

My damage is limited to the top layer of what appears to be an Oakridge, driftwood color shingle. The decorative tabs on top of the shingle, approximately 10-12, have blown off.

As to what the costs should be for a total redeck, the way I would charge is based on a time & effort calculation if you’re going with a ‘typical’ ½" OSB (this is based on an Austin price of around $ 8.75 per sheet; Houston may or may not be similar right now). A very cut up roof is going to cost a bit more due to the complexity & a steeper one as well.

Then there’s the labor for removing the old roof deck.

Do you happen to have any structural damage from Ike, or did you merely get peeled up by high winds? How old is the house? Any combo of gutters & tall trees that might have been dropping a lot of leaves or pine needles & maybe contributing to some rotten wood? If damaged, then you might need some additional work as well.

**No structural damage, just peel up as you describe. Some gutters no trees. **

Ridge vent; well, over here, I don’t usually charge extra for ridge vent other than for product. Same goes for drip edge & lead jacks.

It also would be wise to make a ROI / CBR type decision on doing a total redeck. Certainly if you’re due for a total re-roofing (i.e. a ‘normal’ one with shingles off & then back on), this IS the time to do a re-deck as well. I just don’t know if the savings are going to be worth it in comparison to the costs.

Granted, it is a better way to go in regards to energy efficiency & MAY make the house more attractive should you wish to put it on the market… but the expense may not be worth it.

Provided your tree coverage isn’t too thick, you could always order a report from Eagle View Technologies (they use commonly available satellite images from the web to make a ‘rough’ calculation on your roof size & pitch).

So, if you wanted a rough figure, & if you WERE an actual 25 squares (100 sq. ft. = 1 sq) of removal, I guess I’d be charging around 2,500.00 to 3,000.00 as a base figure & then all the “usual” fees for the shingle off & on, which might be around 7,000.00 to 7,500.00 as a starting guess.

Is this with the new decking of Tech shield or Polar ply or similar product?

…Your mileage may vary.

I hope this gives you something to get started with.

Yes thanks

[/quote]


#6

Yes, that’s with foil faced decking.


#7

So you are basically saying, I understand this is a guesstimate, about $7500.00 to remove all old roof and decking and re-roof with new deck with foil and ridge vent and re-shingle?


#8

You have much more than 25sq.

Call several Profesional State Roofing Contractors.

At least 10k for the roof alone. (If you do it right now.)
Around 10k for the woodwook alone.

Dirt cheap, slave labor price is 50 dollars a sheet.
Labor and material per sheet could easily be 100 dollars a sheet x 3(one square)= 300 a square
(10ft x 10ft)

300 x 27 (you’ve got at least 27 sq on the house alone or more)=8100

And When i said |“If you do it right now|”

I mean that material has gone up a huge amount
since starting around may of this very year. 2008
When i say huge, i mean huge.

And i have info from a very trusted source
that in just 4 very very short months…
I can’t even say it. I don’t want to believe it.


#9

Thanks Roof Lover,

As I said I am not in a “have too” situation. I too have seen the stories about the shortage of shingles driving up the cost.

With Ike and Gustav now, only will increase as you say.

Thanks


#10

[quote=“roof-lover”]Around 10k for the woodwook alone.

Dirt cheap, slave labor price is 50 dollars a sheet.
Labor and material per sheet could easily be 100 dollars a sheet x 3(one square)= 300 a square
(10ft x 10ft)[/quote]

I’m basing my numbers on a maximum of 2,500 sq. ft. (with 15% waste & lots of extra tossed in for good measure) in the ONLY building he wants to re-deck.

2,500 square ft. / 32 s.f. per sheet of ply = 78 sheets, + 2 for the heck of it & rounding = 80 x 50.00 per = 4,000.00. That would be a cost for both the OFF & ON.

Roof Lover, where are you located? Your info is lacking (it’s ‘usually’ under your ID on a post).


#11

Why take off 1/2" osb to just put 1/2" osb back on, why can’t you go over the old osb with a new layer with foil. We do it all the time when 3/8’s is sagging and you can’t hardly walk on it without going through the roof. The butt ends of the osb has to be nailed on rafters, works pretty good and is stronger than before.


#12

From what I understand you cannot do that, the foils has to face the attic space and cannot touch anything else.

Thanks


#13

That is correct.

The reason for the foil facing DOWN, by the way, is because you don’t want to ‘dust’ it if the foil is facing up.

On the other hand, you MAY be able to sell your old OSB provided it is removed in a decent manner. You may come across someone in need of this because of possible short supplies in the wake of hurricane Ike. I would look @ something around 4.00 a sheet, or maybe 275.00 for the whole lot (you’re gonna have a few that are angle cut to fit your hips, etc, & plenty that are damaged a bit too much).

The only reason I am suggesting this is because I hate to see decent lumber going into the landfill.

One possible option is to make a bit of a ‘breather space’ by adding 1x strips on top of the existing layer, then put the new foil faced deck on top & fix up / add in any required fascia, etc. Another drawback is that you would have issues with having to re-flash chimneys & wall joints, so this may not be an adviseable move. You’d also have to (possibly) lengthen your PVC pipes & gas flues, etc, so there’s a bit more to consider. If you ever had a leak appear, it will be a lot more hassle to repair the roof because essentially you have two layers & it will take longer before a leak actually appears in the living spaces, which means a lot longer for the top most level of decking to suffer.

HOWEVER… this is going to really be a great way to increase your energy efficiency & keep hot air out of the attic.

One final suggestion: Get the foil bubble wrap radiant barrier product & staple this in under your existing decking OR have a radian barrier sprayed onto the underside of your deck.

//www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/2a/2ae12da3-09af-4b15-a136-11d97a22d830_300.jpg

//www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/76/76f93d58-161f-48ad-9f21-e83f195e32ee_300.jpg

In thinking about it more, I think adding the bubble wrap insulation / barrier is going to be your best option as for cost savings & quality energy efficiency.


#14

(I have no idea why my image links aren’t working, but you can follow the URL’s to see what I’m talking about).