Home owner questions?


#1

Hi All, Great site. I’ve been reading your messages for a few days and have learned a lot. I’m a retired home owner with time enough to do my own re-roofing job. I’ve stripped it off and replaced some plywood and renailed the rest. Now I’m ready to put on some titanium 30. I plan to have a boom truck delivery the shingles after the titanium is in place cause I work pretty slow and want the roof covered. Will I need to nail some kind of cross battens to keep the shingle bundles from sliding off the titanium? How much below the ridge should I reserve for the shingle stacks? Part of the roof is 3 in 12, part is 4 in 12 and part is 5 in 12. Maybe sliding off just will be a problem on the 5 in 12?
My next question is about ridge vents or adding extra metal area vents on the roof. Will the titanuim and new roof require more ventilation? Would ridge vent or extra area vents be better? How about ridgevent with only about half the linear plywood cut and the other half left for strength? This would give half the vent area of continuous ridge vent. I live in Santa Cruz ca. mild climate with occasional winter rain storms.
Last question is how to deal with the ridge where intersecting gable roofs meet. One room comes in at a lower lever similar to the point where a gable roof dormer would meet the main roof of a house. Can I shingle all the roof except the ridge then add the ridgevent or regular ridge cap shingle later or would I need to button up this lower level ridge and apply the field shingles for the higher roof over it?
Thanks for any advive you might have…DaveB


#2

Stack the shingles on each side of the ridge in blocks of four or five then pull them down as you require them. On that kind of pitch there’s no fear of them sliding.
Your decsision on whether you need more ventilation or not, but strengh is not an issue in cutting back the plywood for ridge vent.
If I understand you right then yes you can add the ridge vent to the dormas afterwards but remeber that it stops back about 2’ before the ridgeline ends.
…DON’T FORGET TO SNAP LINES!


#3

No issue of shingles sliding on that roof.
Usually the supplier will know where and how to stack the shingles.
I do like to make sure their stacks are a few feet away from the valleys.

Ask for 4-foot or 6-foot off-ridge vents painted in the color of your roof. Black,brown,grey or white.

More ventilation than ridge vents, **less leaky **and keeping the structural integrity of your ridge.


#4

[quote=“roof-lover”]No issue of shingles sliding on that roof.
Usually the supplier will know where and how to stack the shingles.
I do like to make sure their stacks are a few feet away from the valleys.

Ask for 4-foot or 6-foot off-ridge vents painted in the color of your roof. Black,brown,grey or white.

More ventilation than ridge vents, **less leaky **and keeping the structural integrity of your ridge.[/quote]

you have me confused and im a ROOFER


#5

Hi All, Great site. I’ve been reading your messages for a few days and have learned a lot. I’m a retired home owner with time enough to do my own re-roofing job. I’ve stripped it off and replaced some plywood and renailed the rest. Now I’m ready to put on some titanium 30. I plan to have a boom truck delivery the shingles after the titanium is in place cause I work pretty slow and want the roof covered. Will I need to nail some kind of cross battens to keep the shingle bundles from sliding off the titanium? YOUR SUPPLIER SHOULD BE OK WITH THOSE SLOPES. How much below the ridge should I reserve for the shingle stacks?3FT Part of the roof is 3 in 12, part is 4 in 12 and part is 5 in 12. Maybe sliding off just will be a problem on the 5 in 12? MAYBE BUT DOUGHTFUL.
My next question is about ridge vents or adding extra metal area vents on the roof. Will the titanuim and new roof require more ventilation? SHOULDNT. Would ridge vent or extra area vents be better? I LIKE A COUPLE OF TURBINE VENTS. How about ridgevent with only about half the linear plywood cut and the other half left for strength? I DONT KNOW BOUT THAT ONE. This would give half the vent area of continuous ridge vent. I live in Santa Cruz ca. mild climate with occasional winter rain storms.
Last question is how to deal with the ridge where intersecting gable roofs meet. One room comes in at a lower lever similar to the point where a gable roof dormer would meet the main roof of a house. Can I shingle all the roof except the ridge then add the ridgevent or regular ridge cap shingle later or would I need to button up this lower level ridge and apply the field shingles for the higher roof over it? SOUNDS LIKE YOU COULD LEAVE SOMTHING NAILED HIGH AND COME BACK LATER TO TIE IN , YES.

GWEEDO
Thanks for any advive you might have…DaveB


#6

[quote=“roof-lover”]No issue of shingles sliding on that roof.
Usually the supplier will know where and how to stack the shingles.
I do like to make sure their stacks are a few feet away from the valleys.

Ask for 4-foot or 6-foot off-ridge vents painted in the color of your roof. Black,brown,grey or white.

More ventilation than ridge vents, **less leaky **and keeping the structural integrity of your ridge.[/quote]

Are you referring to; mushroom vents, pot vent, turtle vent, RV-50 or RV-51 or RV-65 vents?

You really were not clear.

I never heard of a 4ft o 6 ft Off Ridge Vent before.

I have heard of Mid-Roof Intake Vents.

IO do know that an exhaust vent that is not at the highest point of the attic/roof will not provide ANY ventilation for the hot air trapped at the peak above that point.

I personally calculate out the NFVA for every roof/attic that I provide an estimate for, to see how much Intake and how much Exhaust are currently present and how much of each will be required to balance the flowage of the two systems.

Now, for the Retired Homeowner. How can you retire from owning a home?

Are the different elevations of the multiple Ridge Lines and roof heights all connected to the same continuous attic space?

If so, how much of a height difference from one section to each other. If they are all connected, it does make a difference.

Ed


#7

No, those only have half a square foot of ventilation or less.

You would need quite a bit of those to get proper ventilation.

I understand. I have read 25 pages so far and not a single roofer mentions them.
I am going to dedicate a thread to the subject so others can see.


#8

Hi Ed, I though I posted a reply last night but I don’t see it so I’ll try again. The house is like an X with all wings meeting in the middle ( rooms not the same widths so not a perfect X) The north and east wings have 5/12 pitch, the west wing has 4/12 and the south wing has 3/12. The central area is all open to the four wings so yes there is free airflow between them. The 4/12 ridge comes in about 2 feet below the high point and the 3/12 ridge about 4 feet below the high point. We have 4 inch tall soffit vents around the perimeter in every other rafter bay, so 24 inch vent then 24 inch not vented , then 24 inch vent, etc. The outer end of each wing has a gable vent up near the peak, these are each about 24 by 30 inches. Ceiling insulation is 6 inches fiberglass, it is adequate for here near the ocean where it rarely gets below 32 or above 90 .
We’ve never had any moisture problems before but with the new titanium and new 1/2 inch plywood sheathing I don’t mind adding some more vents if it could help.
Regards, DaveB


#9

Are you putting shingles on the 3/12 and 4/12 pitch, they need to be on a 4" exposure for low slope application. What type of shingles are you useing, 3-tabs or diminionals.


#10

Hi Bushhog, I haven’t picked out shingles yet. It had 3 tab that lasted about 25 years. I’m looking at 30 year timberline laminated now or something similar. I put down stormguard in the valleys and along the eaves of the 3/12 area, I’m putting titanuim 30 with middle of sheet lapping on the 3/12 area.
Regards, DaveB


#11

Okay Dave, I have a clearer picture now.

If two adjoining attic spaces are More than 3 feet difference in height, according to Air Vent Corp. and the “Principles Of Attic Ventilation”, then the lower one could become an intake vent for the higher one, regardless if the vent choices are mushroom vents or ridge vents.

The two areas should be sealed off from each other, even if it is visqueen plastic stapled at the connection point.

Ed


#12

Thanks Ed, That sounds like I might be able to concentrate more exhaust vents on the higher area and more intake vents on the lower areas and let the air move thru the X from the lower and out the upper?
Regards, DaveB


#13

Personally, I would partition off each separate attic elevation and maximize both the Intake and the Exhaust for each section to provide the most NFVA possible and not try to force feed it from points to far away to possibly do any good.

Ed


#14

Thanks Ed, I guess I can add some ridge vents for now and see how it goes then go inside the attic later and partition it off if necessary.
Does anyone know where I can see what those “off ridge 4 and 6 foot vents” that were mentioned look like?
Regards, DaveB


#15

"Does anyone know where I can see what those “off ridge 4 and 6 foot vents” that were mentioned look like?"

Roof-Lover said that he would start a new thread showing what he was speaking about.

It just may be a difference in terminology, but I would be interested if there is an alternative product for different situations.

Ed


#16

[quote=“ed the roofer”]***“Does anyone know where I can see what those “off ridge 4 and 6 foot vents” that were mentioned look like?”***

Roof-Lover said that he would start a new thread showing what he was speaking about.

It just may be a difference in terminology, but I would be interested if there is an alternative product for different situations.

Ed[/quote]

Nomenclature sometimes varies regionally… I wonder if he isn’t referencing a DCI SmartVent?


#17

Thats what I would figure too Ranch, but I believe I specifically mentioned Smart Vent in a prior post, (I checked. I only referred to them as Mid-Roof Intake Vents), which seemingly is not what he is referring to.

Ed