Home owner looking for advice from the experts re: drip edge


#1

Hello everyone - As mentioned in the subject, I’m a new homeowner. My wife and I are just about to wrap up the building process on our new home and we are concerned about the quality of the installation of the metal drip edge on the roof. I’ve searched this forum and not had luck finding an answer here or elsewhere on-line. In any case the concern is this: at the corners of the roof, the metal drip edge doesn’t meet to form a joint. In fact, there are gaps at the corners, some are small and some are bigger maybe up to an inch. It just doesn’t look correct. I’m wondering if the drip edges **should **meet and if not, why not? I expected a neat mitred joint at the corners. Am I concerned over nothing?

Thanks in advance for any advice you have to offer.
Rob


#2

There are two ways to go about a corner. You can:

a. Cut the top and nip the bottom and fold it around the corner so that the face is unbroken. This doesn’t work well if there is a pitch change.

b. Run and fold piece 1 around the corner aprox 1/2" and then run piece 2 to meet piece 1 at the corner and cut it flush. Your 1/2" fold from piece 1 will hide the 16th of an inch gap at the corner.

There shouldn’t normally be any “gaps”.


#3

A slight gap is necessary at the corners, and only the thickness of a slice cut with tin snips, if you have gutters installed and they need to be positioned high up on the fascia board.

Otherwise, it is minorly but very exposed sloppy workmanship. Not a major deal, but that wood at the gap is exposed and the rest the the top edges of wood are not.

Ed


#4

Just wanted to thank you for the answers. Appreciate the time you took to provide some good advice.

Thx
Rob


#5

There should never be any gaps the drip edge should over lap about 1/16". Cut the top and snip the bottom of the front visible face to bend around corners!


#6

This is how we do it, there are other ways also.


#7

I prefer uninterrupted corners (snip top in opposing angles so that metal will not “rise” under shingles when bent at 90 degrees) at 2’ with 8’ running up the rake.

While “technically” speaking, metal should “overlap” while going up the rake, it unfortunately leaves a visible seam.

I’ve come counterintuitively install the top metal “over” the lower piece with an average 2" overlap to make the seam disappear with no adverse effect for waterproofing (any water that runs along a 2" piece of metal is just going to drop off of it onto the ground).

Nailing patter varies. It (for me) depends on the roof deck or roof I’m going over. If it’s a nice flat deck, every 12" makes me happy.

If a not perfect roof I’m going over, then it’s every 12" where possible and if need be, I’ll either nail closer or at farther intervals so as not to cause a lump in the metal at any dips or high spots. In essence, I use the metal to even out any minor imperfections.

A metal detail should be able to be installed with no visible gaps (seams, yes, nice tight seams, but no lifted gaps).

Judging from your description (to Rob), that edging is “not” going in right). And Rob, metal should always be overlapped at least 2".


#8

If it doesn’t leak I wouldn’t worry about it. In my opinion a minor gap in the metal flashings is OK.

Cutting metal flashings or ( drip edge ) can be tricky even for an experienced roofer, and finding someone who won’t charge you an arm and leg to fix it might cost you more than its worth.


#9

[quote=“pfelber”]If it doesn’t leak I wouldn’t worry about it. In my opinion a minor gap in the metal flashings is OK.

Cutting metal flashings or ( drip edge ) can be tricky even for an experienced roofer, and finding someone who won’t charge you an arm and leg to fix it might cost you more than its worth.[/quote]

An experienced roofer should have no problems with flashing details,thats part of roofing.


#10

Hi,

Have the builder fix it. It is sloppy workmanship.

You have to look at it for as long as you live there.


#11

[quote=“Lefty”]Hi,

Have the builder fix it. It is sloppy workmanship.

You have to look at it for as long as you live there.[/quote]

It shouldn’t be too difficult to fix to your liking.


#12

According to shingle mfr’s the first course of felt/ice guard should be on top of the drip edge at the gutterline, and beneath the drip edge(rake edge) on the rakes. So to turn the corner with the same piece probably isnt the easy way to do it properly.

Axiom’s method is how I personally do it.


#13

You bring up a good point mayniac. I have always bent them around corners, for a smoother transition.


#14

good stuff everyone.

nice roof photography Axiom.

and what part of the world is represented
by such a precise, professional, reply 2ndGen?

gweedo


#15

[quote=“gweedo”]good stuff everyone.

nice roof photography Axiom.

and what part of the world is represented
by such a precise, professional, reply 2ndGen?

gweedo[/quote]

I’m up here in the Northeast (New York).
And thank you for the compliment.
Good luck with you job.
:slight_smile: