Here is the prices i was charged for work


#1

roofing- 2 layer tear off
installed drip edge along rake and eave edge;nailed.
then installed 36 inch ice shield along eaves edge over drip edge(self adhesive). he then put down #15 felt paper over the whole roof and put cobra vent over the ridge. then he installed timberline shingles.
it was 40 squares total and he charged me just FOR LABOR- 160 bucks per square inluding the 2 layer tear off and the 30 yard container for removal.total for roofing labor was 6,400. he said if any sheathing(plywood) had to be replaced it would be 50 bucks a sheet(4-8).
to remove and intsall 4 windows he charged me 600. 150 per window.just labor.
to remove and instal one rear exterior door,he is going to charge me 600. thats a pre-hung.
i live in new york. supposedly 160 per square for a 2 layer tear off is good. usually 180-200.


#2

I can’t comment on New York pricing, however I will say that it’s not always the cost but how the process goes.

Was all the old felt removed for a full on clean to the bare wood deck analysis?

How many nails per shingle did he use? 4 / 8 or 3 / 6? What length were the nails? Compressor (coil, nailgun) or hand (I’m a gun man, myself)?

Were the courses straight? Did he snap lines or (gasp!) use G-Tape?

What was the offset? If you were to look @ the shingles in a stair stepped pattern, how wide would the “steps” (not the rise up) be before the corner or next step of a shingle is reached?

How were the valleys cut or laid out? What kind of materiel was used in the valleys?

Did he do a thorough yard clean up & run a magnetic nail bar over the grass 10 times?

Finally, did you see ANY leftover shingles in full bundles? Did he take care of all the debris & trash or were you responsible for it? If you were to look through the trash, would you see a lot of unused shingles; i.e. enough to equal 4 or 5 (maybe more) fully wrapped bundles? If so, then you may “think” you have 40 squares, but it might even be as low as 36 or some lower figure (i.e. 3 squares billed for but not actually installed = $ 480.00).


#3

where in NY. i would have been higher. but im not cheap either.


#4

never heard of a cobra vent bein put on before the shingles.
other than that, sounds like you got a good deal.

gweedo.


#5

Was this some sort KASH deal?


#6

The roofer must have been hungry for business.


#7

i think he put ice shield in the “valley” as well.he removes the debris,that was included. the total cost for everything was about 9,400 for the roof.
he is going to do the gutters in a few days.
240 linear feet and will charge me 1200 with material.
for the roof he used a roofing gun with a compresser.
now for the exterior rear door,to remove and replace,is 600 bucks on the cheap side?
what if with the door/house being so old,the pre-frame had problems being installed,how much extra does that usually cost? just curious.


#8

i guess i’m confuded with the cobra ridge vents-when would he have put them on?


#9

[quote=“gweedo”]never heard of a cobra vent bein put on before the shingles.

gweedo.[/quote]

Gweedo, if you’re putting shingles on the ridge & THEN you put the ridge vent up, I think I can understand why you don’t think ridge vents work.

Taser, go back to my sketch… typicall, in that kind of a house the shingles are pre-loaded on the ridge line of the roof by a wholesale supplier, i.e. right where the ridge vent slots are going to be cut. Sometimes (& depending on the type of shingle 'cause some weight a LOT more than others) it’s better to spread the shingles out over the roof deck to lessen the weight in one place but even that isn’t easy due to the pitch (steepness) of the roof.

It obviously doesn’t make sense to move all of that heavy load @ the same time as you do the tear off on the old shingles & felt, so when we get up to that point on a roof where there are just about enough shingles left to get the work done on the ridge cap, we:
–Move the final bundles out.
–Do the tear off of the final amount of old shingles.
–Do any decking repairs that might now show up as being required.
–Measure out the right spacing, snap chalk lines, then cut the slots for ridge vents.
–Continue to shingle up to the slotted areas, making cutbacks in the shingles as needed for the vent.
–Add ridge vent products in accordance with the mfg’s specifications.
–Place shingles over the ridge vent.

Done.


#10

thats what i thought. shinhles or caps go over the roof vent, gweedo through me for a loop./


#11

shaking my head. If you have soffits also known as the overhang i dont think there is enough ice and water shield. 24 inches inside the warm wall.


#12


#13

I think his so called contractor is a joke. I would call the cops and throw his butt in jail for what i have heard here. So unprofessional its silly. Why not let him move in the house since he got you this messed up. Or call the cops either way i think there is something wrong here that we are not being told. I think this contractor is a family member.


#14

GTP… A non- believer?


#15

does ice shield go over the drip edge;if so how would the drip edge be of any use?


#16

Ice & Water goes directly to the roof deck.

It is designed to protect the wood, not the drip edge.

Drip edge has multiple benefits:

–It is designed to span the gap between the roof deck & fascia.
–It is designed to protect a wooden drip edge (if you have one).
–It is designed to shed water away from your fascia.


#17

Light a match once the gas has been poured and then run like hell. Thats how you fix it once and for all!


#18

we use a marley vented ridge that is installed first before u tile sounds strange but thats the way the systems installed


#19

TYPICALLY gaf SPEC CALLS FOR A DRIP EDGE/BACKFLASHING TO BE INSTALLED 1ST,THEN THE ICE+WATER SHIELD,CERTAINTEED REQUIRES ICE +WATER SHIELD TO BE LAPPED ONTO THE FASCIA THEN COVERED W/DRIP EDGE BACKFLASHING(UNLIKE SKETCH WHICH SHOWS ICE SHIELD TO THE EDGE OF DECKING ONLY),i PREFER THE BACKFLASHING(3X3)INSTALLED 1ST THEN THE ICE+WATER SHIELD AS ICE WILL BACK UP UNDER THE SHINGLES AND GET BEHIND A DRIP EDGE,YOUN SHOULD HAVE ICE+WATER SHIELD TO EXTEND AT LEAST 24" PAST THE BEARING WALLS AND 3’ IN THE VALLEYS,IF
INSTALLING AT THE RAKE EAVES,THE ICE SHIELD WOULD GO 1ST,THEN THE DRIP EDGE IS INSTALLED OVER IT TO PROTECT AGAINST WIND DAMAGE-THE PRICES YOU RECIEVED WERE VERY CHEAPhttp://www.roofing.com/images/topics/5981/img_1196583632.jpg


#20

THE PURPOSE OF ICE +WATER SHIELD IS NOT JUST TO PROTECT THE WOOD,BUT IN CONJUNCTION W/PROPER EDGE METALS TO PREVENT ICE/WATER FROM GOING OVER THE FASCIA INTO THE SOFFIT,AND DRAINING DOWN YOUR BEARING WALL AS WELL