Help deciding on a roofer


#1


#2

if any of them are planning on replacing
sheathing in their prices,
they they all seem low to me.

david


#3

sheathing = decking?

Yes, all are for new 7/16" OSB.


#4

Ask roofer #1 to remove the turbines and install ridgevent.

Roofer # 2 and 3 sound good, double felt can’t hurt but isn’t needed on a 4/12.

Any ice & water shield in any of the bids, for the valleys at least?
It may be code in your area.


#5

[quote=“brokehomeowner”]sheathing = decking?

Yes, all are for new 7/16" OSB.
[/quote]

I just put new plywood on my old house and I found that it takes a lot of care to get it securely nailed and nice and flat. I actually ended up removing the old board sheathing and nailing the new plywood directly to the rafters( after sistering them to eliminate sag) so I’d suggest you make sure the price includes enough labor time for them to do it right. I wouldn’t want short cuts in the sheathing application to spoil the new shingle job…DaveB


#6

Something seems wrong with those prices. We just recently did a house like yours. Two layers of asphalt tear off and I can tell you that it was more than 8300 and that is with the 30 yr timberlines. Maybe prices are different.


#7

OSB is for walls,plywood is for roofs.


#8

Well, OSB is for something anyway.

Personally, if it were my house, I’d want plywood and not OSB.


#9

roofer’s #1 and #2 prices seem pretty low to me.I wouldn’t do it for that kind of money.


#10

I know roofing in MO is a lot cheaper than in MN.

You got three bids so you are on the right track. Some say go with the middle guy but since the middle and high bid are close you have to consider both. The first bidder seems too low compared to the other two.

What I would try to find out is who would do the work between the three bidders. Are they going to sub the work out or do they have hourly workers. Are the people doing the work fully insured? Is there a permit required?

It appears they are all on the same scope of work so the bids are mainly priced differently according to overhead, operating costs and profit.

As far as decking is concerned since you are going over spaced decking OSB or plywood would both work fine. If you want the best decking on top of your existing decking buy 5 ply plywood. OSB will work just fine, that’s what I use, remember it’s going to be pancaked between your old decking and new roof system.

As far as tear offs are concerned I see more issues with plywood than OSB. If you have water intrusion both will rot out and fail.

As far as the GAF Master Elite is concerned it’s a badge that costs $7,500 per year to wear. In 10 years you would have to pay $75,000 to a company on top of buying the products. That’s something I could never do, sorry. IMO, I don’t think their products are all that great, others here would agree.

One bidder mentioned two layer of felt. If they propose to put down two layers of 15# felt on a 4/12 they may as well just put down one layer of 30# felt. Or better yet put down high grade fiberglass felt instead.

Here’s another take on the bidders. The first guys clearly the cheapest and took a week to return your call. It sounds to me like he’s cheap and very busy. The high bidder returns your calls right away because he could have less work meaning more time on the phone.

Like others mentioned here even the high bidder is much lower than were I’d have to be at to pull a profit on your roof. I just got a signed contract on a 21.38sq off 4/12 two layer tear off four pieces of roof with good decking for $12,363.73. $1,000 of that is for gutters.


#11

Thanks to everyone who’s replied so far!!

Axiom: No ice or water shield in any of the bids. Not sure on the code.

kage: OSB vs. Plywood. Yea I kinda want plywood too. Guy today was trying to convince me that OSB is better. I honestly don’t know.

Dougger222: The GAF Master Elite badge thing seems like a scam. Do you prefer Certainteed?

I don’t know about the 3 above companies, but one reason why prices are so low might be because of the roofers I’ve seen in this area. I’m going to try and say this nicely: they appear to be of Mexican descent. I really want to ask these guys who’s going to be doing the work and I guess I have a right to since I’m paying what I consider to be a lot of money, but I don’t know if it will matter? But everytime I’ve seen roofers in my area, they’re usually of Mexican descent with one or two white guys. Sorry if that sounds racial.

I guess it’s fair to ask if they’re subs or full-time employees?? But heck, I could see them just telling me what I want to hear.


#12

no OSB is NOT better. 1/2CDX would be much better. but more $

yes, you should ask who is doing the work, it’s your money. and if you think they are just telling you what you want to hear, find someone else.

Forget the GAF, use TAMKO Heritage, or Certainteed Landmarks. Both are more $ than GAF, but well worth it.

I personally prefer TAMKO


#13

ALl i use is certainteed and never had a problem with them. For those prices you will never get plywood its double the cost almost.


#14

I’m a Certainteed Shingle Master Company. In order to offer it’s warranty you have to use Certainteed Winterguard (ice and water), Roofer Sellect (high grade fiberglass felt), and starter shingles. To bump the Sure Start Warranty from 5 years to 15 years it only costs $3 per square. They give me $2,000 worth of warranties per year for free.

The only products I install from Certainteed are the Landmark line which is a great laminate shingle. The advances Certainteed has made with the help of 3M has made the shingle IMO the best out there.

Another option would be for Owens Cornings Duration or Tamko Heritage.

In all honestly I would put GAF Timberline way at the bottom of the list of shingles to use. They seem flimsy, cut too easy, laminate pulls off too easy, and they crack at year 10.


#15

When I have torn off roofs with OSB almost every time OSB is all spungy and nails you could just pull out with hands if wanted too, plywood nails are still in good n tight and not spungy.


#16

I agree kage.


#17

The problems with the plywood that I encounter on two out of three tear offs is the buckling at the seams. Of course roofs with h-clips are better. Most of the roofs with plywood from the 70’s-80’s are a real pain, thin ply, no h-clips, and tons of buckling.

Kage, you must have very strong hands!!! I have to use a hammer to pull nails out of OSB.

The fact is though that 98% of new roofs that I do are decking with OSB. I would have to go back to about 2002 to think of the last new roof I shingled that had plywood on it. There’s been a few hundred new roofs with OSB since then. As a matter of fact I only know one builder who uses plywood on roofs. Of course cost is the biggest advantage perhaps.

If all three contractors bid with OSB that should say something. I would opt for 1/2 OSB rather than 7/16 though.


#18

Not when OSB gets spungy, in which case they usally have.


#19

Any moisture on OSB and you will have spunge on your roof,everytime!


#20

Don’t forget about plywood and water it will warp and delaminate and cause as many head aches as wet OSB.

Just like anything in life there’s good and bad sides to every thing.