Going from Concrete tile to Asphalt shingles, am I crazy? Contractors welcome to comment


Hi folks. I’m new here and am seeking your thoughts/suggestions. I’m going to be specific so I apologize for the length.
We have a house in western Washington State where rain is very common. It’s approximately 2200 square feet and has a concrete tile roof. The house (with the roof) was built in 1994. Unfortunately, we’re experiencing some leaks to the point where I see that some of our eaves are sagging so clearly there’s some water damage.
Between battling with moss and broken tiles (we hired someone to clean it once and they proceeded to break a number of the tiles), we are going to do a complete roof job next summer.
I’ve been reading online that many suggest replacing the underlayment beneath a concrete tile every 10 to 15 years which seems excessive but given the issues we’re encountering, I’m beginning to think that’s our problem in that the underlayment has failed.
Given my experience with the concrete tile has not being a good one, I’m considering just going to a high quality asphalt shingle roof once all the roof/eave repairs are made. Since it seems that the tile needs to be removed to change the underlayment, that’s a pretty high cost every 10 years.
I’m curious as to your thoughts and/or suggestions regarding whether I’m crazy or not to consider removing the tiles and going asphalt. Are tiles that much better and I’ve just had bad luck?
Thanks so much


I do not think you are crazy at all. Over 50% of the work I do is slate and terricotta tile related, but personally do not like concrete tile at all and don’t work on them.

When comparing concrete tile a high end shingle, such as a Grand manor, if it was my house, I would go with The single. If it was a quality terracotta tile i would say relay it but really don’t think the expense is worth it with concrete tile.


Comp shingles are your best bet. Most tile roofs had only one layer of 30 pound felt as the water barrier or underlayment. When this underlayment dries out you no longer have a water tight roof. Concrete tile will leak and do crack allowing water to run onto the underlayment. Bad underlayment equals leak.


Not crazy at all.
Ive been saying this for years.
Most concrete tile roofs only last as long as shingle roofs.
It is a rich mans roof.
Looks real nice but leaks
Because water gets under the tile
And gets below the cheap, innadequate underlayment
People were putting any underlayment they wanted under it and now the underlayment industry is even worse than it was then.
When you replace your concrete tile roof with a shingle roof, make sure you use a good asphalt saturated felt,
NOT synthetic underlayment or you will likely be in the same boat with the shingle roof.


Thanks so much folks. I really appreciate your responses. I’m going tl spend alot of time reading up on different brands of asphalt shingles to educated myself.

Thanks again


Certainteed Landmark Pro is for certain
But you could go with the regular landmark if you have a quality plant near you.
Or Malarkey


Big certainteed guy here, landmark pro, or landmark premium, or if you want to go all out grand manor which is a full double laminated shingle.


Thanks again so very much. I really appreciate the suggestions on brands as well. Dumb question but was does “full double laminate” mean?

For background, our previous house didn’t have well designed roof and we had it completely redone and still, I never felt that it was a “good” roof. When we bought this house, I thought I was set with the perfect roof. I mean what could possibly be better than a concrete tile roof. Unfortunately I know better now. All I want is a good solid water tight roof that is durable and attractive. I really appreciate your insight and suggestions


Standard architectural or dimensional shingles have a single solid layor of fiberglass mat across the whole single, most with a horizontal seam in the middle with the tabs that give them the dimensional look laminated on the bottom half you see. If not properly nailed on steep slopes you will sometimes see the lamination falling off.

The grand manor has 2 solid fiberglass mats on top of each other running from top to bottom with no seam in the middle. If you look around here you will see alot of threads about shingles failing from high nailing. With a full double laminate you can nail anywhere and not have to worry about the nails not catching both lamination, though when installing you still nail in the recommend area.

Some guys on here say they are overkill, they are over double the price of standard architectural shingles. When a customer wants a high end long lasting shingle roof they are my go to. They are a very heavy shingle, something like 425 lbs per 100sqft. Vs under 300 on low end architects. GAF makes a similar product but I prefer the certainteed.


Here is a pictures to give you an idea what you can do with a nice asphalt shingle.


Look at Brava Tile synthetic composite. Similar cost to concrete tile, vastly superior performance. Check some jobs we’ve done at www.Facebook.com/authenticrestoration


That’s some pretty nice copper work MPA. Now the original poster is gonna be expecting that level on his job from some average quality roofer! :wink:


They also have the Victorian style Carriage house.

The Grand Manor has a strip on it like the old Independance/Hallmark so in some spots it’s 3 shingle layers thick.

These shingles will keep water out for a very, very long time, like more than 50 yrs.


It’s all about doing it right. That grand manor pic I posted is a house we shingled with Bird shingles back in 1989. When the shingles ware getting to the end of there life the customer called us back for there new roof.

It’s a shame today that so many contractors don’t look for the future. Do it right the first time and they call you back in 27 years and buy another roof from you.


BacK to Johnrorks original post best thing to do is look online and at supply house to narrow your choices down, look at sample boards ECT.

When you get closer to your final decision ask to look and feel some actual shingles. They all look great glued to a board. When you have the actual shingles that are going to get nailed to your roof in your hand is where you can really tell the difference.

For the past 2 years landmark pro has been our standard basic shingle. Just did a gaf timberline HD job this week for the first time in 2 years, had to match existing. It is amazing when the shingles are in your hands how apparent the difference between one brand and another is.

Years back shingles used to be rated by weight, with the invention of everything being a “lifetime” warranty wights pretty much disappeared and when you asked a rep would pretend like threy didnt know. Know I am going to sound like a certainteed rep but I do give them credit for now clearly listing weights on there web site. Landmark 235lbs/sq, landmark pro 250 lbs/sq, landmark premium 300 lbs/sq. Grand manor and carriage are 425 I believe.


Thanks for all the tips and advice everyone. We’re really excited to get this roof done right and will keep all your advice in mind


A good roof is as good as the installer…never mind who puts what 'cos I don’t see anyone offering to guarantee what they say.
Everyone talks about shingle differences but no one talks about differences in concrete tiles. The only detrimental reports are always going to be about a poorly made product whether concrete tiles or other.
Pick a contractor with whatever product you wish to use and then ask him for the names of clients he did five years ago.
Ask them what their roof is like 'cos a bad job shows up well before that period.
Today’s technology on concrete compression yields a concrete tile that is likely to last 30 - 40 years and the only then the problem is finding the same profile for spot replacement.
If the tile is porous…seal it and you won’t have any problem with moss and water degradation through moisture expansion during cold extremes .