Gabled Roof intersecting a perpendicular wall


#1

Hi Everyone,

My wife and I are building a home and we have a few areas that have gabled roofs over first floor areas (that are vaulted) that intersect the wall for the second story. I am worried about water runoff in these areas and making sure we don’t have leaks in the future.

Are there general best practices that are applied to make sure this doesn’t leak? I talked with my builder and he is planning on building a cricket in these areas and covering with I&WS. Is this an adequate solution for these areas or does there need to be something else to make sure we dont have problems?

I’ve included an album with some pictures of our plan in case it is helpful.

Thanks!

https://myalbum.com/album/z1cbJrtcTbP0


#3

Ignore the other post, that is spam and offers you no help. Yeah that’l roof has some tricky areas. You will end up with some “dead valleys” (areas where lots of water drains into small areas coming from multiple directions). Those areas are best to be done with some type of flat roofing material (far better than using ice and water shield).


#4

P.s. these areas are really areas where for best performance you need to give up a bit of form for function for the best and longest lasting result. Good news is most of these areas will not be visible from the ground.


#5

Yes IR is right i&ws would not be the answer, a modified bit. Or something similar would work . Cause you want to leave areas like corners free of anything that would cause water to puddle at the end of the dead valleys. Even if there trim boards like 1 by 4’s , they to should be cut above roofing and not down to it at corners


#6

Where in the country are building? In the northeast we refer to those areas gusset rather them dead valleys. How we do them is ice & water then flat locked solder seamed copper. If installed correctly the copper work can all be reused in 20-30 years when you install the next round shingles. The areas can be done with flat roofing material, such as modified bitman, but there is nothing out that is designed/warriented to last as long as shingles for used in that area other than metal.


#7

I would bet on a PVC membrane outlasting shingles. But yes flat lock copper is the best, just hard to find people who I would trust to do it other than myself.


#8

Thanks for all of the replies! This is really helpful! A couple of details… The house is in Atlanta, so we don’t get much snow here. We’re also going to have foam insulation in the ceiling… Not sure if that makes any difference, but thought I’d throw it out there.

A couple of questions:
Sounds like the cricket is the right way to deal with this kind of roof structure. On the one side of the kitchen, this is going to require a cricket that is really long - early 18th. Does that seem doable given the slope required to have adequate flow?

With the modified bit, does that go over the I&WS or does it replace that? Also, the copper, does that go over the modified bit, or replace that?

Any idea of what it might cost to do it “right” vs just the I&WS that is being recommended? I don’t want to skimp now only to have issues later.

Sorry for the elementary questions!


#9

EPDM is the most cost effective good solution, next being PVC, copper flat panel would be ideal but is out of many peoples’ budget.

Mod bit would be a fire hazard IMO.


#10

It would also be a good idea to attach the siding and trim in the dead valley area with screws so that it can be easily removed to replace whatever membrane you choose to use.


#11

Long and wide, copper will last a lifetime if done correctly and looks much nicer than tpo or epdm.


#12

Mod bit is a stand alone product and does not require I+W. Same with copper. As said, copper would be best in such a situation however it will be difficult to find someone with the skills to do it. I would NEVER trust someone who’s original idea was just I+W under shingles do properly do flat lock soldered copper.


#13

MPA, nice copper work!
Are those shingles the premiums?
They are gorgeous!

The regular weatherwood landmarks from the peachtree plant near me look dull as hell


#14

Thanks, no they are landmark pros. We pretty much stopped selling landmarks except in colors Not avalible in the pros.

We do our shingle pricing in 4 tiers depending on price, sales guys never try to sell the lowest tier, landmarks were always 2nd tier with atlas and timberline. TL was in the 3rd, grand manor and carriage the 4th. When pros came out they were kind of in the middle but alot closer to the landmark price so we put them in the 2nd. In past 3 years they pretty much became our standard shingle. For the price, color and quality I got no complaints. Still use atlas pinical when the house is in a forest but there colors don’t come close to the pros.


#15

Those pros look so good.
Wow.


#16

I have the same experience!
Only wanting pros or Atlas depending on if homeowner is concerned with streaking(or under a forest)
We do have two colors in the regular landmark that are awesome ( moire and pewter)
But only because those two colors come from a better quality plant.


#17

Was just at a 17 year old motor black TL job the other week. Still looked new.


#18

Hey guys - thank you so much for all of the info! I talked to my builder and we are going to discuss with our roofer on the best way to handle this. I mentioned copper plates over the crickets and my builder asked why I wanted copper instead of some other kind of metal. Is there a reason why copper would be chosen?

The areas where the crickets will be are on the back of the house, which will be ~35 ft off the ground and probably won’t be visible…really doing it for functionality more than aesthetics. Any reason not to go with something cheaper like a galvanized steel or something?

Thanks!


#19

Copper is used because the joints can be soldered instead of just caulked. Other types of metal slightly less expensive such as stainless and galvanized steel can be soldered but are harder to work with and harder to get a good solder joint, and don’t last as long

When dealing with custom sheet metal roofing work it is 90% labor so it’s a no brainer to spend a few hundred, if that, extra on the best quality material.


#20

Use EPDM for that area.


#21

Yeah if the person in charge of the project doesn’t understand why you would choose copper in that situation then they are not someone I would trust to do copper work. I’m with axiom and think you are best off using EPDM or one of the other more mainstream types of flat roofing in your situation (much better chance to find a competent installer).