Located in Arizona, I have a Patio roof with a slight pitch covered in composition rolled roofing. Leaks developed right before the drip edge due to slight curling of the roofing and sinking right in front of the drip edge, creating low spots. I need to replace the fasca and the first plank of the deck and hope to slip in a new coarse of roofing, but want to know what is the best way to avoid this from happening again? Seems like the drip edge may have played a roll in the problem. Thanks!
only real way is to put tapered system… or use a tpo membrane with like termination bar… just patching it like that will make it worst… eaves ponding water is an ugly can of worms you dont want to open…
The professional solution is not to fix the damage but the cause which is ponding water…
i agree youll make it worse tryin to patch the edge, build it up more, make it pond water more.
you want to end up with one layer of membrane over one edge metal.
first thing you have to determine is , do you have 90 lb roll roffing or some modefied ( torch grade , mop grade) roll roofing.
the easiest way to tell is reach down and try to tear a peace , were ever u can.
if it tears real easy than its probably plain ol 90 lb.
if its very strong then you have a much better material that can be repared.
so find out what ya have and get back to us.
I was thinking about tapering the edge, since I am replacing the last plank (1x6 T&G) anyways as it has some rot, but have never seen this (tapering) actually done on a patio roof. Seems like a 1-1.5" taper on that last 6" would give a nice slope I will know more once I pull up the end tomorrow morning to see how the stuff is put down. I will let you know how things look Sat. Thanks!
by tapered we mean removing the old roof and installing a tapered insulation system over the existing deck… to give all the roof a uniform postive drainage…
The only way to taper the bottom only is if you trim the top of the rafter tails in an angle…
This is not proffesional, weakens the structure and here in my city is against code…
by replacing the first starter board you will break the bond in the existing membrane and by just patching it you dont only create a risk of greter leakage but also you create more ponding water…
Unless is like the case here with some local owners trying to sell the house… they fix the bad wood and by te time the sale matures … then the problem arises again…
patching will not work… must fix drainage
Whats the pitch of the roof now? It may be that because you have a low grade roof on now, laks developed and caused the low spots, or the low end material is worn out, or you could have an improper drip edge (as if there is a proper way to install 90#), or any number of other things. can you post a pic of the damage?
OK, heres your problem,
The dripedge was installed and then the roofing material was sealed to the dripedge.
What happened was that the seal broke, due to expanding or contracting of the dripedge and it worked its way free from the roofing materials, or the seal dried out and came loose from the roofing materials or it just pealed away from it. The roofing materials then curled up becuase it was loose. The water then poured onto the dripedge and back under the roofing materials. The water then rotted out the decking or other materials under the roofing. Which then made a low spot.
What you need to do to repair it and not have it happen in the future…
Tear out the rotten areas, replace the areas with the appropriate materials. Remove the dripedge, install the roofing materials, THEN install the dripedge!!!
The dripedge will then hold down the roofing materials from popping up in the future.
Then seal the dripedge with the appropriate materials.
This is one of the biggest mistakes that the “roofers” make on these small 3 season porches or small additions, or porches. This detail alone will seperate your experienced roofers from your inexperienced ones.
Make sure the roofing material is UNDER the dripedge!!!
G tape is giving away all the trade secrets.
Well I got to tear out this mess, and the cause was pretty clear. The installers had used the same gravel stops used on the sides as a drip edge. The roofing material was still stuck very well to it, but I would imagine that water was pooling from day one, even with a slope of about 1/12. I pulled up the last foot or so of decking, repaired a couple damage joists and replaced the facia. I install a std 2" drip edge under the material, but installing a drip edge over the top seems like a sure fire way to keep things in place. Thanks everybody for your quick wisdom.
If you used a quality product for the new roof instead of composition rooled roofing, then you shouldn’t have to worry about water at the edge if the roof is properly intalled and any standing water evaporates within 72 hours.
An example…BUR (tar and gravel) NEED a gravel stop to hold the roof down and to stop the gravel.
If done properly, the edge detail should not be an issue.
I wonder how far down the water intrusion went, and how long it was occuring before you noteced it was having an issue.
i thought it didnt rain in arizona!!!