Flashing on chimney - see photo


#1

I just had a new roof put on my house and my brick chimney sits less than 6 inches from the dormer. The roofing company placed flashing around the chimney (the mortar was not cut with a grinder so flashing could be inserted between brick courses) and part of the flashing was attached to the side of dormer (which is cedar)and sealed with caulk. This created a metal box-like attachment connecting the chimney and dormer. Is this the correct procedure? I pointed this out to the manager of the roofing company and he assured me that the flashing procedure was the best he could do with only six inches between the chimney and dormer.


#2

Can you take a picture for us?


#3

Need to see a picture to say if it will work or not.


#4

Does the chiney go through the dormers overhang? If so than he probably panned the side and between where its 6" I would step normal and alternate the step on top of each other I see it a lot in pgh. Should be able to counter some times guys don’t grind because the chimney is beat if that’s the case I cut through the brick and run a continuos flash nasty but effective


#5

if the chimney is connected to the dormer i would think it would need a cricket.


#6

Hi,

Not cutting a reglet in the brick for flashing is acceptable way to flash.

As for the box, I would have to see a picture.


#7

#8

That is not going to last the life of the roof.


#9

That looks like COMPLETE SH*T IF I HAVE EVER SEEN. I WOULDN’T PAY A DIME FOR THAT COUNTERFLASH JOB.


#10

AAAAAGGGHHH…Whats that???


#11

It wasn’t boxed in before?
I am assuming that.

He boxed it in for you?

It was rotting the wood before right?

It looks mechanically correct and is an acceptable way of flashing and counter-flashing.

One might think it could look prettier
with less pieces and with different angles.
But it does look mechanically ok.

Looks like they used a good polyurethane sealant
Possibly “NP1”.
He also messaged it in.
I am actually suprised to see that.
GOOD JOB.


#12

The chimney was not boxed initially. The chimney doesn’t connect to the dormer at all. There was a gap of 5 to six inches between the dormer and chimney. The house is 55 years old and had three layers of shingles and this new flashing was installed. I started taking in water when it rained and needed the new roof. I’m assuming the wood around the chimney had rotted or the flashing wore out.


#13

It looks mechanically correct and is an acceptable way of flashing and counter-flashing

What the hell did you smoke tonight?

That is a complete disgrace.

PAT- Do not pay for that-That is not acceptable work by any means. That is not professional at all. Ask him to redo that and take his time and cut the metal straight, neater caulk job. and tuck into the mortar.
Teach him what PRIDE means.


#14

[quote=“travis1”]It looks mechanically correct and is an acceptable way of flashing and counter-flashing

What the hell did you smoke tonight?[/quote]

Yeah, i know. I can make it look better too.

but I do know that
This roofer had more brains
than the builder,
the building crew,
the engineer and/or the architect

and all three roofing companies before him.


#15

Its a mess it will not last, if he only had 1 layer he might have had a shot. Not cutting into the mortor is a standard where i am at, so it is not unusal. But this is a mess.


#16

thats a mess either way however it’ll probably last they nailed the hell out of it… chimneys like that kinda require a plan before you start flashing it… thats a strange construction for a dormer to be honest no over hang fascia anything like looks like a box with siding on it


#17

oh wait sorry there is fascia


#18

looks aside…i bet i will hold up and serve its purpose.


#19

yeah i’d say it would got enough nails in it hahah they should have used some spikes and ferrels on it


#20

Wow ! That is not right,Where do I begin. Well for one counterflashing should always be in serted into the mortar joint . there it is lead wedged and sealed with a masonry sealant, color should match the motar and be neatly tooled in. This was obviosly not done.
Aluminum also has an adverse reaction with the mortar in chinmys and does not make good counterflashing. lead is really the best to use. He tried to do a good thing be building it tight to the dormer though. Overall, To me it looks like an inexperienced crew and a sloppy job that looks like crap and will not last. A good roofer takes pride in his work.