Fiberglass shingles


#1

Was told today that 25 years fiberglass shingles are not lasting as long as they should more like 10-12 years and that they are not perfected yet.

Was looking in a BP borchure and trying to figure what shinlges for which roof 3 tab or or and see half of the ones I like are fiberglass.

IS that info accurate, that they still need some time to work on fiberglass, seems like a pretty stronge statement given alot of this brochure is fiberglass.

Thanks,

Warren


#2

I do a bit of work with the fiberglass shingles and I actually have never heard that before. I would be more inclined to double check your source of info and insure that they know what they are talking about. Any company willing to put 25 up to 50 year warranties and more have done some very thorough testing and would not be willing to sacrifice their reputation if the product failed as you have mentioned.


#3

someone close to the business at least to contractors who do it full time. I guess it struck me as I saw how many are fiberglass and thought that can’t be right or hoped it was not right when I saw stuff that may suit this job.

I see this here though some guys think one product is great then someone else thinks it is not so will ask again and why.

Warren


#4

Hi,

Fiberglass shingles have been around since the 70’s.

If the shingles do not hold up, it is not because of the fiberglass.


#5

I’m not your scientific guy here, contact aaron for that. I go with hands on experience on this. I have found hands on through first hand knowledge and investigative work through the years that asphalt shingles as opposed to fiberglass shingles do have a tendency to crack more, and that fiberglass shingles do have a tendency to blow off more for some reason. This is actually contrary to the claims I’ve heard from both sides which both claim the opposite. Odd. Some of these numbers I attribute to economies at the time installed, in my opinion. I.E., in the 70’s and early 80’s people reverted to cost effective methods of getting their problem done for them cheaply. I’ve also ripped roofs that were clearly done during World War II, this being evidenced by newspapers (huh?) installed as paper and dated. Also, the lack of metal availability is prevalent on these houses as there is no metal flashing in most of these cases and only 60 year old tar, or a largely overhanged flashing area flashed basically in the wood siding largely overlapping. These underperforming roofs in my opinion are to be blamed on underperforming manufacturers or applications by the roofers. These are human mistake. They are HR issues that are not my problem. I’ll continue to sell fiberglass.


#6

I agree well said!


#7

agreed lefty,

hello warren,

alot of the discussions you see here are do to different ways that the roofers here roof.
alot of times its a hot or cold thing, where some products work better or are not needed, than others, because of the climate there bein applied in.

as far as fiberglass needin to be perfected. no.

fiberglass took over, as the membrane, in shingles along time ago.
its why they last twice as long as old asphalt shingles.
it is why you dont see anymore shingles curling up as they grow old.

gettin to your problem.
i like to tell people to go to you local roofing supply house ( they are in the phone book under “roofing wholesale supply”) .
just go in and ask them what is the most popular shingle they are sellin the most of theese days?

they sell to the roofers in your neighborhood.

they will be glad to help.

other than that ,

DO NOT USE DEMENSIONAL SHINGLES ON LOW SLOPES,
GET YOURSELF A 30 3TABS.

LIGHT COLOR COOLER DARK COLOR HOTTER.

good luck

gweedo.


#8

today i was getting some info that was steering me wrong on the gun I wanted to get but too hard to track a 40r down since discontinued.

The info on fiberglass is appreciated, I find it harder to weed through the stuff in life at times that to get to do the job. I may go back to that guy and say what’ s up with that.

Still waiting for the material for the fascia boards two weeks late now and a long time supplier just not got his shit together.

When you talk about low slope and say stay away from dimensional I measured the pitch with 12" on a level and it was 4 7/8 down so I assume that is a 5/12 pitch.

Is that considered low or? I guess I am going to be a three tab guy but I care about the home so much that I just want to do what looks the best. I do have this mindset that says thiis home was built 1971 and is a certain style it may be dimensional (is that architectural style?) shingles may not suit it.

There has never been an issue with it getting too warm in the summer but I found all the roof truss were plugged completely with fiberglass bats forced in near the soffit, mold in the soffit area and damp enough to grow plants. So am pulling it out and will put in those pink things so no insulation can block them off again.

Shingles are brown now and will stay in that brown type area, I gave it lots of thought but the constrast with the brick it works.

I asked once before if someone could post a photo for me and I can find some time soon will try and figure it out. Realize I am evil as I am a do it myself guy and not what you guys like but I am neurotic about doing stuff well so normally when I am out of my cabinetmaker mode I do a good job, now I realize to get the quality I want on this I have to hire a pro, I have even spoken with a few that do it full time I will not hire, no address on the card, no name on the truck etc, make faces when I say I want a bill so forget it.

I someone would post for me I have one or two jpegs that are 750 size wise and I could change it with Correl first to whatever pixel size is right.

Thanks for all your input it is appreciated,

Warren


#9

5 / 12 is not a low slope in my opion.
pick out a nice brown demensional, you’ll be just fine.

gweedo.