Effect of Single Thickness on any Sheathing Imperfections


#1

Got my first bid and truely liked the GC (not a roofing specialist but presented himself in a helpful and knowledgeable way; confirmed 4th generation contractor he claimed to be).

He gave good advice pointing out that because of my low pitch, I won’t get much of the asthetic benefit that comes with the higher priced shingles (seems to be 5/12 if I measured right); also said that difference between 30 and Ultra will be strength and ability to stay intact but they’ll each look weathered about the same over time.

I’m interested in the GAF Slateline primarily for very solid Consumer Reports for strength, wind and weathering ratings. After meeting with the contractor I checked the sq weights (per ConsReport) and it says the Slatleine is 247, GAF 30 yr are 269 and Landmark 30 are 242. Is it a fair conclusion to say I’d have a little more concern with sheathing imperfections with the Landmark and slightly less concern with the GAF 30? Would bumping either of these up to the Ultra line give me a significant enough likely shot at avoiding this concern? Or should I just go the other way with a 3 tab that (dare I say) could be layed over 15-20 years from now when I’ll likely be out of here? Please note that I’m doing it right this time by doing a tear-off, W+I and proper ventilation.

Cost diff to go Slateline over either 30 year is $600. If either of the 30s introduce the same chance of noticing imperfections, I’m thinking the Slateline are worth it to get the better ratings. Going with a 3-Tab is also not out of the question. Can you pros offer this girl helpful opinions? I’ll be out of here in 15-20 years.


#2

Hi,

Where do you live?

What do you mean by imperfections?


#3

[quote=“nmchugh6”]Got my first bid and truely liked the GC (not a roofing specialist but presented himself in a helpful and knowledgeable way; confirmed 4th generation contractor he claimed to be).

He gave good advice pointing out that because of my low pitch, I won’t get much of the asthetic benefit that comes with the higher priced shingles (seems to be 5/12 if I measured right); also said that difference between 30 and Ultra will be strength and ability to stay intact but they’ll each look weathered about the same over time.

I’m interested in the GAF Slateline primarily for very solid Consumer Reports for strength, wind and weathering ratings. After meeting with the contractor I checked the sq weights (per ConsReport) and it says the Slatleine is 247, GAF 30 yr are 269 and Landmark 30 are 242. Is it a fair conclusion to say I’d have a little more concern with sheathing imperfections with the Landmark and slightly less concern with the GAF 30? Would bumping either of these up to the Ultra line give me a significant enough likely shot at avoiding this concern? Or should I just go the other way with a 3 tab that (dare I say) could be layed over 15-20 years from now when I’ll likely be out of here? Please note that I’m doing it right this time by doing a tear-off, W+I and proper ventilation.

Cost diff to go Slateline over either 30 year is $600. If either of the 30s introduce the same chance of noticing imperfections, I’m thinking the Slateline are worth it to get the better ratings. Going with a 3-Tab is also not out of the question. Can you pros offer this girl helpful opinions? I’ll be out of here in 15-20 years.[/quote]

Personally, I’d take Slateline even in your situation, for $600 extra. Sounds like just the cost of the shingle to me. Just remember in 15-20 years when you sell the house, sell the roof too. Buy zinc strips for the slatelines, or they’ll look ugly quick. They should be extra money, but it will be worth it.


#4

What Lefty said…


#5

Contractor said the Slateline is a very good shingle, but thin so any imperfections could be seen. I question if, given the weight of the 30 yer Cert and GAF, would they present the same issue?

“Imperfections”: above my garage I can definetly see a “dip” in the roof which I assume is a sheet of plywood that is “dipping” (no leaks though). It is the only area like this that I can currently see with this type of “imperfection”.

P.S. What are zinc strips? Ballpark cost for roof of 25 squares? I’m in Central New Jersey.


#6

If you have “dips” in your roof, I’d call that more than an “imperfection”. Sounds like your beams are too far apart and/or your decking is too thin. No shingle in the world is going to hide that, lol. Maybe you could fill the dips with roofing cement and shingle over it, hehe. IMO fix the structural problems or maybe you could plant a big tree in front of the “dips”…

You need woodwork, not a thicker shingle.


#7

Tar Monkey has a point. I believe you’d be happier with a roof that is less expensive and maybe not so good looking versus an expensive roof that telegraphes deflection or sagging between the trusses.

Deflection and sagging will not to my knowlage void the manufactureres warranty as long as your not installing over rotten wood. But it is not visualy appealing. IMHO you’d be more satisfied if the deflection is an issue, to have the boards replaced to eliminate the problem. Please note that if the rafters are un-even replaceing the decking boards will not eliminate the visual defect.

I agree that spending money on a high profile roof that is not installed on anything over a 7/12 pitch is a waste of money spent.