DIY'er installing stone coated steel metal roof


#1

I’m needing to install a roof rather quickly. I’m a heavy DIY’er, and feel that I’m more than qualified to install a stone coated steel roof on my own.

With that being said, I have several questions. Some of my questions are based upon a heavy fight I’ve had (as a local politician) in getting stone coated steel allowed in one part of our community. I lost that vote, but the residents got fired up enough over the issue to change their CC&R’s to allow the material. In that 10 month long process, I learned a lot. But I didn’t get some of my questions adequately answered. (I had to deal more with “harmony and conformity” and less so on the technical aspects of installation.)

So, here are my questions.

  1. Class A - I’m aware that a shake roof under a stone coated steel roof can be problematic for ensuring class A status, which is mandated in our county. I’m concerned with any flames that climb a house siding, and get “sucked” up between the shake roofing and the stone coated steel. I’ve talked with people familiar with the roofing, and they claim that putting insulation between the shakes and your materials makes it Class A eligible, by cutting off the air flow. The question I have to that is part of question #2.

  2. How to avoid mold or moss from growing on the existing shake while under your stone coated steel. I currently have moss growing on my northern facing shakes, and want to ensure it doesn’t continue to grow.

  3. With horizontal battens installed, I’m concerned with moisture that is vented up from the home being trapped under the stone coated steel. Especially if there is insulation installed there. An installer I talked to says that water vapors that come through condense on the shingle, then run down to the lower bent portion of the shingle, then out to the top of the next layer down. Sounds feasible. But is this accurate? I also see references to using some kind of foil faced membrane, would would not allow such condensation to reach the back side of a shingle, run down and out to a lower shingle…

  4. Vertical battens appear to be used to help “stabilize” a surface for horizontal battens to use. On a wood shake roof, which I’m laying a stone coated steel roof over, is there some kind of fabric or other material that I’d use for a moisture/water barrier? I know dual sheets of 30# felt are used on new construction or over asphalt shingles, but I’m not so sure that’s a wise choice for wood shake (for obvious reasons). Are there alternatives? (and I hope we’re not talking wide sheets of bituthane… I have a 100 foot roll, but it was pretty expensive. Using it for bathroom wall sealing behind hardibacker panels. Was wonderful to use around windows I replaced…other than the stickiness)

  5. Are tools for bending/cutting available for individual home owners to install? (Consider me an experienced DIY’er, having done gas, electric, complete install of windows in existing stucco structure, bathroom remodels, roofing with shake and asphalt shingle.) I suppose I can just buy them and sell them to someone else… I’ve managed to rebuild a transmission with no special tools beyond a micrometer, a dial indicator or dental picks. I’ve used #10 cans, woodshop clamps, metal bars, ABS drain pipe, and a few other things to avoid expensive tools.)

  6. Due to a tight budget, I was not able to get a front porch addition put in before my current roof failed. So I’m going to be faced with ripping up a portion of the new roofing to allow for new rafters to go in for a front home extension. How difficult is it to remove the metal shingles? :slight_smile: D (I know, odd question, since the roof is supposed to be the last one I’ll ever need, right?) I suppose I could just run a grinder up the approproate area and rip out the affected section. But if there is a different way, that might enable me to re-use the existing roofing, that would be most helpful.

  7. How consistent are colors from one run or batch to the next? Are they changed from year to year? I suppose I could always be safe by just buying the extra now. Is there much fade from year to year?

  8. I have a tall pine tree that rises above the roof. How resistant to acids from pine needles and rain is the acrylic coating material? Does it eat away the acrylic coating, or affect the warranty in any way?

  9. Is there a way that I can get wholesale pricing?

Anyway, that’s a good set of “starter questions” :slight_smile:

I’m working on how to stay on the roof, as it’s rather steep, and this metal product doesn’t look all that “hefty” to stand on, despite manufacturers’ info that says you can… I did see a video where a roof was burned out from underneath, and a bunch of firefighters were standing on it and trying to “ride a flexing roof”. It looked phoney, however, as I can’t imagine a single firefighter worth their salt every trying to gang pile on a weakened roof just to see how much it flexes… There’s too much risk for serious injury or death, and if they couldn’t figure that out, their chief should have chewed their butts out for breakfast…

Justin


#2

I forgot to ask…

I’m sort of going towards the Gerard, but I realize as companies get large, they cheapen product the best they can to get whatever profit that can be had. (That sounds odd, until you realize that when a new product comes out, unless it fails from an unseen flaw, it’s overbuilt to assuage a skeptical public and provide some modicum of dependability. Then the cost saving measures start being implemented as critical mass is reached.)

So, is there a benefit over one brand or another?

And what type/brand of pneumatic nailer should I use? I am partial to Senco nailers, based on my past experience in being able to find parts and rebuild my large finish nailing gun. And while I know that a 16d nailer can be good for putting down battens, I’m likely to find myself battling with split battens. For the roof material to be put down and secured, 16d is too large. Are there galvanized nail strips that large anyway? I viewed a Michael Holigan 5 minute clip online and saw them using pneumatic nailers, but I could swear I saw the nail head hanging out by 1/4" or so. Maybe it was an optical illusion, but is that supposed to be the way it’s done? If so, for what purpose? Avoiding a dent in the materials? Providing a place for christmas lights on the roof? :slight_smile:

Late edit… 16d appears to be what is used on the battens. 8d for securing the metal portions. Can the 16d guns be fitted with 8d nail strips? I see screws can be used too…

Anybody have strong evidence one way or the other? I’d prefer to use screws, but am unsure of my time allowed before raining… :slight_smile:

Justin


#3

im tired and all i can tell ya is get galvalume if you gonna get metal.
talk to gulfside supply in horseshoe beach florida.
.
good luck.

gweedo.


#4

Thank you for the suggestion on Galvalume.

I asked many of the same questions from Gerard, and they have not answered them. Their web site doesn’t answer them either…

Hmmm

Justin


#5

Go to the web site kbs metals there geared for more of your diyer. I just had a gerard canyon shake installed it is the battenless system so I dont know much about the batten ones. Also metalroofing.com has some pretty good info.


#6

regarding the future tie in, I’m imagining a transition on angles from one to the next? In that case, and dependent on your local code, I see no reason why you cant cut back your roof with a grinder as you say, run the lower roof first, then tie them in with a piece of metal under the upper roof and over the lower roof.