Brand Help


#1

Looking at different brands. The Elk shingle is recommended to me by roofer and supply house. I am needing a good quality shingle without the high price of a class 4. The Elk Prestige HD is 30yr and 80 wind. To get the 80 wind in GAF or Certainteed I have to go with a 40yr. The 30yr only have a 70 wind in those two brands. Also, I do not know how they would compare in cost to the Elk. Thanks for your help.


#2

They are close in price within two bucks a square. As far as the wind warranty is concerned the 80mph rating on the certainteed is given with 6 nails per shingle as of the 2006 warranty book. It might have changed. Is the wind warranty very important to you? Do you live in a high wind area?? If you do then 6 nails per shingle should be standard work.


#3

IMO, the only reason to go with Elk is because they have a color or design that you can’t seem to find or like with any other mfg.

Here’s why: The average homeowner is going to live in a house for max 10 years before they move. You need to look @ your own personal situation, however some changes aren’t exactly forseen as much as others, i.e. your co. moves you to another town or state in 3 years & you didn’t see it coming. This means you might be spending bank for Elk when the person who buys your house might not give .02 cents additional for the purchas on your house & it cost you $ 150.00 extra to go with Elk vs. Brand X.

As for wind resistance, you do get a better shingle out of a dimensional vs. strips (3 Tab), however if it wasn’t installed correctly then this is a waste anyhow.

If you want the maximum in wind protection…
–Install a starter strip (no “3 Tab Flipped” under the 1st course).
–Put an ice & water shield on the roof deck to @ least 18" above the load bearing outside wall location.
–Have an improved valley design with an ice & water shield.
–Use something similar to Titanium UDL or another improved decking protection.
–On your first course, in between the starter & the first course, add a 2nd line of roofing type cement (which will give you a total of 3 lines of mastic). Dimensional shingles have the cement (sticky line) pointing down where starter & 3Tab has the sticky pointing up.
–Do NOT do an open valley design. Make sure the valley cutback isn’t too wide & is cut to the high side. Lay a bead of cement along the side of the valley that will be the high side, just about 4" or so above where the cutback will be done.

Those are the ideas I have; where there is product vs. process involved, it’s just a matter of specifying a bette item & the cost shouldn’t be reflected in labor.

There ‘might’ be an extra charge for the extra beads of cement, but then unless you have a 15:12 house, I wouldn’t charge a nickel for adding the extra bead of cement (not really needed, but if someone wants “overbuild” then this is a good way, IMO).

Anyone else have any suggestions?


#4

Where im at last i checked elk is less expensive than gaf or certainteed. Only thing i like that they have is te starters they make.


#5

I live in West Texas. We can easily have wind up to 60. Every year we have at least on day of wind up to 70-75.


#6

i have been installing GAF 30’s for quite some time and (knock on wood) i have never in my 18 year career had a single shingle blow off. it is all about nail placement. GAF owns elk now. in my area…almost all the shingles are within $2 a square of each other. so spend the extra $40 and get GAF (#1 brand in north america) or ceratinteed (#2 brand in north america).


#7

Why not go w/ the Class 4 hail resistant shingles? I know it would cost more. I don’t know how much.
Did you get a quote for a discount from your homeowners insurance? if you are in the hailbelt, I would think this might be substantial


#8

Yes. The cost for the class 4 is twice as much. I am having to do 51 squares (28 for my house and 23 for my barn). That would put me at about 12,000. I really cant affod that. I am trying to do as cheaply as I can.


#9

I have State Farm right now and they are the **** that put me in this mess. They will give me a discount on $363 a year for a class 4. Allstate does not give a discount, but if I switch, they are only $120 a year more than State Farm. It doesnt matter I cant afford the Class 4 and I will save much more going with a regular 30yr shingle and getting allstate. I will still save half on the roof and will save $240/year vs. State Farm, without the class 4 discount.


#10

Tdove, where in Texas are you? I’m in Austin.

Depending on how far away you are, I can do any 51 Square roof between a 3:12 & 8:12 pitch that’s less than a 3 hour’s drive for $ 7,650.00 +/-… & That would be with a “30 year” type Elk, Atlas, Tamko, CertainTeed, GAF; your choice of brand.

This would also include a full tear off of all felt, new felt, new valley, starter strip, lead jacks, DL type (mill finish) drip edge, up to 4 lead jacks of varying size, painting the roof penetrations to match, up to 4 pieces of 1/2" OSB decking, 40’ of wooden 1x2 drip edge & up to 40 linear ft. of ridge vent.

If there wasn’t any decking or drip edge work required, you’d get a credit back of $ 130.00.

Of course this is sight unseen… don’t know how this fits into your budget. or what you’ve been quoted by others. & If you were here in the “greater Austin area” the $$ would be less by about $ 400.00 or so, maybe more.


#11

Midland. Sorry, but I am a long way from Austin. Thanks for the advice though.


#12

LoL… I always laugh when I hear someone from Odessa say “Midland / Odessa” & someone from Midland never says the Odessa part.

:idea:

Hook 'em! :mrgreen:


#13

Hey i heard of those towns in the movie friday night lights. You guys are pretty serious about your football down there.

I agree with ranch hand. If you need help deciding on whom to pick just put the spec down here and we can let you know what is needed and what its for.

Good luck with your roof selection.


#14

isnt Odessa the town where the cheerleader in the TV show HEROS is from?
[size=75]“save the cheerleader save the world”[/size]


#15

Hi,

That would put me a $12,000.

Discount of $363 a year x 30 years = 10,890.

Sounds like you are paying $1,110 for a 30 year roof. Sounds really cheap to me.


#16

Hi lefty. hey you picked up on that. I don’t know about the others, but actually CT’s IR shingles are a 40 yr. LandMark.