ATTN: RanchHandRoofing or others..drip edge low pitchedroof


#1

RanchHandRoofing,

I see you are helping out someone on the board regarding drip edge and you seem to know what you are talking about so could you help me out too.

I am remodeling my backporch…the floor was a poor foundation and caused the porch roofline to slop down on the left side, also causing water to rush to the left hand side of the roof.

Gutter doesn’t sit behind drip edge so all that water was going behind the gutter and dripping on the ground causing lots of pooling.

Once it jacked up the roof and put new support posts the roofline was now level which should keep all the water from gushing to that left side. To fix the water dripping behind the gutter I put a gutter apron flashing over the existing drip, up behind the shingles, and hung the bottom of the apron directly into the gutter.

this solved the problem of water getting behind the gutter…however I am still geting water dripping from somewhere.

I went up on the ladder today when it was raining and watched…the aprong is working and the flashing behind the gutter was dry, however it appears that water is actually traveling up the backside of the shinge and dripping down behind the drip edge…causing water to actually get behind the fascia board flashing. You can actually see water pouring out behind the flashing.

the plywood roof under the porch is exposed and there is no leaking there. If i put the ladder inside the porch and reach up and touch the backside of the fascia board it is soaked.

I took the gutter aprong flashing down thinking this perhaps made the shingles raised too much but still getting the same problem. Thinking I should seal the gap between the shingle and the top of the drip edge with gutter sealer.

I put some photos of the problem on photobucket at the link below…could you tell me what I am doing wrong.

s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd244/vandelay102/

Thanks in advance
vandelay101@hotmail.com
Rob O.


#2

it appears to me that your porch roof is too shallow of a pitch to be shingled.


#3

I agree with Marshall.
In addition to that you have the drainage from the upper roof, falling on the porch.

The water may be getting under your shingles because of the gutter apron, you said the gutter apron is over the drip edge and under the shingles.
Is the top of the gutter apron visible between the “cutouts” of the shingle?


#4

[quote="-Axiom-"]

The water may be getting under your shingles because of the gutter apron, you said the gutter apron is over the drip edge and under the shingles.
Is the top of the gutter apron visible between the “cutouts” of the shingle?[/quote]

i had that same thought


#5

i took the gutter apron off, but still getting the same problem. When I had the gutter apron on, it wasn’t visible between the cutouts as there is one single continuous starter shingle that I slid it under.

Would it be ok to run a bead of gutter sealer on top of the drip edge or gutter apron to keep water from getting behind there??? Would gutter sealer work between aluminum and shingle?

BTW, the slope seems fine, there is never any pooling on the roof.


#6

1st, Thanks for my “Daily Affirmation”.

I’m strong enough, I’m good enough & doggone it, people like me! (well, except for that drunk over on the Roofing Business thread… but I digress).

My first thought was that you didn’t have any starter strip, but that 2nd or maybe 3rd to last photo proved me wrong.

Second was maybe that your slope might be a bit too low for 3T’s; I was right there with Marshal & Axiom.

My next thought was maybe you needed to remove the bottom 4 or 5 courses of shingles, then install an Ice & Water Shield (I&WS) along the perimeter 3’ in from all edges & replace the shingles. Then it occurred to me that an I&WS was only going to work on a small portion of the situation & probably wouldn’t prevent the water from flowing behind the fascia.

Hmmmmmm… If you DID get into removing your bottom courses for an I&WS install & you are NOT going to do the entire project in 3T’s, maybe get a custom drip edge made where the deck overlay has 12" going up the slope vs. the usual 1-1/2" to 2".

Maybe a side profile on the drip edge / decking situation.


#7

I agree with ranch. Not enought pitch to shingle. DO NOT put any sealant under the shingles it will not work and will make a bigger mess than you had before. May i suggest a peel and stick like flintlastic of liberty. I would get a contractor out there to fix the problem. This might be a little over your head


#8

thanks guys for all the suggestions

I was hoping for a fix though unfortunately. It just seems to be happening on the left side. Sad thing is the house had a new shingle job 5 years ago and looks like S$%T already. That crew must have been drunk that day because i’ve seen other houses done by this roofer and they look sweet. The other owner of my house must have took the cheap route apparantly.

Well I guess I’m stuck with a mess now. I have a wheelbarrow under the drip since yesterday afternoon and it’s completely filled now. I’m sure my summer my roof will be completely rotted and warped.

I probably will go the bead of gutter sealer to maybe salvage the situation now and get it fixed next summer.


#9

If you were to completely eliminate the gutter, would this cause the foundation to erode away?

You could do a test to see if the water is STILL going behind the fascia by removing the gutter & doing a water test…

& Here’s my breakdown of your components - feel free to let us know what is missing or needs rearranging:


#10

If you try to seal the shingles to the drip edge with gutter seal you will be blocking off the drainage for your roof.

The problem is that water is getting under your shingles, that is a big problem…
You don’t want to trap the water in there…
Removing the entire porch roof and applying Ice & water shield and re-shingling it will solve the problem, at least until the nails rust out…

It is my opinion that you need a different type of roofing on that part of your home.
EPDM (rubber), Modified (torchdown, cold process, peel and stick,), these are products designed for this particular problem.
These products should be applied by an experienced installer but the peel and stick modified is probably something you can do yourself.
Use the right materials and apply them correctly and the problem will go away, for the long term…


#11

i think i heard that the installation kit for liberty that you get at home depot comes with a how to dvd.


#12

Thanks for the diagram. I modified it to show you what is happening. I honestly don’t see any roofing felt, but I can only see a few inches past the drip edge. The end of the plywood sheathing is wicking water up pretty back and the back of the fascia is soaked. I will probably have to end up replacing that fascia board with treated as well as plywood.


#13

Can you actually see the water going back up under the first shingle as illustrated?
If this is the case, extending the first shingle to overhang the drip edge by 1\2" or so may solve the problem.
Still, a pretty low slope for shingles…

It is possible but Water is probably entering higher up the roof.


#14

ok guys…i just took another trip up on the ladder on the side of the porch to read the profile of the roof. It seems the end of the shingles are curled upwards. Looking closer as to why they seem curled upwards I lifted pretty heavy up on the drip end to look at the exposed plywood sheathing.

What I found was indeed roofing felt and a ice damn.

However, it appears from inside the roof, as I did not notice before, that the last 6 inches or so of the plywood sheething is a seperate piece. I bet the original plywood was rooted so instead of replacing the entire piece, the roofers just cut off in place 6 inches of the damage sheething, and sistered in a new piece.

When I lifted up head of the drip edge, I could see the end of the plywood sheathing, which is soaked BTW. The plywood has actually warped upward between the rafters causing the last row of shingles to rise higher than the pitch should be on the end. Now from looking inside the porch you can see the entire fascia is now wet, almost black looking which it did not look like a few weeks ago. With the heavy rain the last 2 days, The plywood has wicked up so much water along with the fascia board that the ends of the rafters are also soaked and starting to wick water up as well.

Will those rafter ends be totally rotted out by spring? NE OHIO.


#15

If the rafters are solid right now they will probably be alright until next spring.
There is still time to get this fixed before snow sets in.
If you know there is a problem, and you have identified the problem why not fix it?
The damage is only going to get worse…
At least tarp it or put some cheap 90# over it or something for the winter.
Don’t let it continue to leak…

The water that you are concerned about today will be ice in a few weeks.
When water freezes it expands, nothing can stop this…
The water trapped in your roof will expand, loosening up the decking among other things.
More water will get in a and freeze and expand some more.
This is a very bad scenario…


#16

I was thinking about tarping it but how do I keep water from getting under the tarp? What is cheap 90#?


#17

A tarp will probably work better for you.

Cover the entire roof overhanging the edges with enough to go up the wall a foot or so and wrap over the gutter so you can secure it on the underside of the soffit.
Pull it tight and secure it with boards at the rakes.
Don’t nail into your facia.
Screws usually work better.
Secure it at the wall with a board in such a way as to keep the tarp stretched tight.
Wrap the tarp over the gutter, covering it.
Secure it on the underside of the soffit.
Now it shouldn’t blow off.
At the wall you can probably clean the siding and tape the tarp to the siding with Gorilla tape.


#18


#19

Great picture Ranch, you showed the tarp wrapped around the board and everything. :smiley:


#20

thanks for all your help guys…I really appreciate it. I called a few roofers today to see what options I have for this time of year and what price I’d be looking at.

Do you guys have any idea what an Ok price would be to strip the roof, replace 2 4/8 sheets of plywood, new treated fascia, drip edge etc? I’ll let you know what these 2 places quote me. They told me they will tell me what is the correct type of roofing for the pitch my roof is.