Anyone else specializing in 150 year old ghetto houses?


#1

man i havent been on a ranch since december. i feel fortunate to have work but i am sick of doing crackhouses.


#2

Back in the 70’s and 80’s my dad used to roof houses in North Minneapolis. Stories of 5-7 layer tear offs. Stories of people jumping into his truck at stop signs.

I really don’t like roofing old houses. Nothing beats a 5-20 year old house. Will do the old ones for a price.


#3

i like doing 8-10 a year but not one after another.


#4

its better than the 15-19 a square to “just shingle” i was offered a couple of months ago. I love Michigan.


#5

The oldest roof I have worked on was a 270 years old double locked standing seam copper roof. In a storm a tree damaged the drip edge and I needed to repair it LIKE IT WAS BEFORE.

Fortunately I’ve got a restorations-license :smiley:

I liked to work on VERY old objets. There you could see how it was made a very long time ago AND the work was made very well, well it is still working. WITHOUT any sealants. :shock:

Unfortunately, we do not have any of those here in the US… neither old nor well made.


#6

I have worked on several that were built in 1600’s. many in the 1700’s, vertical sheathing .


#7

i could be wrong but it seems to me that CertainTeed suggests vertical sheething when resheeting over existing decking. i guess it makes sense but ive never seen it or done it that way.


#8

Just out of curiosity, why does it make sense to you?


#9

well the sheething will be supported better. all of your 8 foot seams will be resting on the 1X’s and you dont have to worry about them landing on the gap. ive never done it but that is the only reason i could think of doing it that way. 90% of my jobs lately have been resheets. why do you think they suggest that. i am a certainteed msa quality master. lol


#10

I’m a MSA wizard, I don’t think its in there. Engineering wise it only make sense to run it one way.


#11

It is in there, or at least I can vouch for it being in previous editions.

That is in reference to plywood overlay over existing horizontal skip sheathing, with the plywood supposed to be installed vertically.

Supposedly, the Certainteed explanation is to prevent movement of the decking due to all the original and new sheathing being installed in the same direction.

I don’t buy it, especially for the old homes that had skip sheathing and the building has done as much moving as it is going to by the time this 75-100 years have rolled around.

Ed


#12

correction i am a msa wizard and a quality master. does my quality master certificate cancel out my wizard status since the quality master is permanent and its my favorite color (2 out of three of my favorite things are green) wasnt i supposed to get a tool bag or something for the quality master test? all i got was the wizard shirt. rooferR check again it is in there. did you get the tool bag?


#13

i run them horizontal on resheets so i can get off the pick quicker anyways.


#14

No tool bag here, if you call would you tell them to send mine out too?

Do you have a guess in what chapter? I would have thought that would have caught my eye.


#15

Winter is right around the corner… :roll:


#16

Look at Page 36 of the 8th Edition MSA Manual under the section titled, “Wood Board Deck Sheathing”.

Spaced Boards: When applying an acceptable deck over spaced boards (i.e. purlins or lath boards), use minimum 3/8" plywood or minimum 7/16" non-veneer (OSB, WB) decking applied with the long dimension aligned vertically up the slope. This situation can arise when tearing off an old wood shake roof.

I also have it on one of their older technical bulletins from around 1998 when I questioned them regarding the approved application method.

Ed